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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Speaks 
Banana Breath 
Between The Ways 
Block Route 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home 
Captain Crunch 
Closer to the Heart 
Crystal Lizard 
Dirty Crack 
Dixie Crystals 
Electric Boobs 
Entrance Crack 
Fantastic 
Father Knows Best 
Fleet Feet 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 
Grand Funk Railroad 
Great Arch, The 
Great White Way 
Mercury's Lead 
No Alternative 
Pandora's Way 
Peer Pressure 
Pulpit, The 
Rainy Day Women 
Rice Krispies 
Storm in a Teacup 
Strawberry Preserves 
U Slot 
White Way Direct 
Yardarm 
Unsorted Routes:

Rice Krispies 

5.10c R

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
FA: Kenny Hibbits
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: First bolt circled

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Description 

You'll think somebody sprinkled Rice Krispies on this route when you get up to the grainy middle section. A heady lead or a fun toprope.

Climb the steep slab with thin pro, keeping your eyes open for tiny indentions that might hold sticky rubber.


Location 

Starts about 10' right of Crystal Lizard.


Protection 

Sparse, small gear; aliens or microcams, maybe some brassies would work. Bolted anchors/rap rings.



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By Jim Singletary
Oct 28, 2011

A taped hook protects the first hole. You can back it up with notional TCUs, depending on the foliage in the hole. The crux is about ten feet above the hole. It looks like someone tried to retrobolt the crux, but the bolt was chopped. A #2 slider nut protects the downward facing flake at mid height on the pitch. It feels more solid than the little TCU you can futz beside it. Long, easier run to either an overlap with a hand size cam straight up, or the second bolt on Crystal Lizard a bit left, then an easy run to the anchors.

Kenny Hibbits was amazing. This pitch terrified me.