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 ADVANCED
Der Zerkle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absolution 
April Fools 
Bar None 
Der Fuhrer 
East Face Left Side 
East Face Right/Der Zerkle 
Feeling Lucky 
Final Solution 
Happy Ending 
Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall 
Knot Carrot 
Ribspuren 
Southeast Arete 
Sunny Side One 
Sunny Side Two 
Touch Monkey 
Two Clucks From Saigon 
West Face [Der Zerkle] 
What If You're Not? 
Wing Ding 
Unsorted Routes:

Ribspuren 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: H. Weninger & B. Bell, 1989
Page Views: 412
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 8, 2002
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  • Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This climb is done either as a single pitch 5.8 or a two-pitch 5.10d, with the second pitch being "Happy Ending" which is listed [separately] on this site. The two pitches are so different in location, position, character, and grade that they are practically unrelated anyway.

    To climb Ribspuren, get to the West side of Der [Zerkle] and find a thin attached flake near the ground, just north of the center of the west face. Climb up and right on this as a hand-traverse to reach a ledge. From the ledge, step right to climb pockets and face holds near a right-facing corner with a seam or two. This is not well protected to this point, and is proteced thereafter by large cams in pockets, which are solid, but somewhat sparse. Follow a line to the top of the cliff, stepping left of the right-facing feature at a bulge, and them back right.

    Once on top, walk up and left (north) up the slab to find a good belay.

    From there, one can climb "Happy Endings" (some 50' up hill) or descend via a walk off to the North. Be careful to avoid the poison ivy.


    Protection 

    Rositer calls this a thin crack. Don't let that [deceive] you though, the gear required is actually large cams in pockets. I used one each #3 and #4 Camalot at the cruxes, but could have used additional [pieces] in that same size range if I'd had them. Regardless, there will be some runout, particularly at the bottom.



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    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    May 31, 2003

    There is an OK #2 Camalot in a pocket placement at the end of the opening traverse for your 1st piece of pro. A small Alien near the top is useful.