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A decent climb that mixes up nice edging with some fairly intimidating friction moves. Begin at the right side of a flake leaning against the wall directly beneath the hanging "ribeye flake" in the middle of the NW Slab.
P1 - Climb the right-facing corner and face to a belay at a juniper bush directly beneath the hanging Ribeye Flake. Good gear and easy climbing. 5.6, 80 feet.
P2 - The meat. Bite into a leftward traverse on significant edges, heading up through broken, slabby terrain toward a line of three bolts. Friction up the bolt line (5.8, intimidating) to reach lower-angle, more well-featured rock and a left-trending finger crack that deposits you on Cow Pie Ledge. 5.8, 120 feet.
3rd class about 100 feet left of the base cairn and Sky Crack until you're directly beneath a dark, water-stained face and a large, hanging flake. Ribeye climbs an easy corner to a stance beneath the hanging flake, and then traverses left about 20 feet to follow a line of bolts through low-angle, friction-intensive terrain.
Three well-spaced bolts protect the crux of this climb. It wouldn't be at all unreasonable to simply solo the first pitch and forego building a belay at the juniper bush; the climbing is easier than the guidebook 5.6 up to this point. Regardless, QDs and a set of nuts will get you up this climb in style; bring some cams if you're so inclined.
Pat cruising up Ribeye Flake.
|By Kevin Landolt|
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Sep 4, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
A really enjoyable climb! 3 bolts for 200 feet of climbing keeps it spicy.