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 ADVANCED
Northwest Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bolted Arete T,S 
Cows are People Too T 
Cows in Space T 
Doctor Cow S 
Paint it Sad T,S 
Ribeye Flake T 
Sky Crack T 
Squid Skid T 
Stiffler's Mom T 
Turbo Pup T,S 
Yellow Dihedral T 

Ribeye Flake 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: T Moderson, Craig Leubben, 1989
Page Views: 373
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 3, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The Ribeye Flake itself is in the upper portion of...

Description 

A decent climb that mixes up nice edging with some fairly intimidating friction moves. Begin at the right side of a flake leaning against the wall directly beneath the hanging "ribeye flake" in the middle of the NW Slab.

P1 - Climb the right-facing corner and face to a belay at a juniper bush directly beneath the hanging Ribeye Flake. Good gear and easy climbing. 5.6, 80 feet.

P2 - The meat. Bite into a leftward traverse on significant edges, heading up through broken, slabby terrain toward a line of three bolts. Friction up the bolt line (5.8, intimidating) to reach lower-angle, more well-featured rock and a left-trending finger crack that deposits you on Cow Pie Ledge. 5.8, 120 feet.

Location 

3rd class about 100 feet left of the base cairn and Sky Crack until you're directly beneath a dark, water-stained face and a large, hanging flake. Ribeye climbs an easy corner to a stance beneath the hanging flake, and then traverses left about 20 feet to follow a line of bolts through low-angle, friction-intensive terrain.

Protection 

Three well-spaced bolts protect the crux of this climb. It wouldn't be at all unreasonable to simply solo the first pitch and forego building a belay at the juniper bush; the climbing is easier than the guidebook 5.6 up to this point. Regardless, QDs and a set of nuts will get you up this climb in style; bring some cams if you're so inclined.


Photos of Ribeye Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Pat cruising up Ribeye Flake.
Pat cruising up Ribeye Flake.

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By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Sep 4, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A really enjoyable climb! 3 bolts for 200 feet of climbing keeps it spicy.