A decent route on nice rock that's a bit dirty from lack of use. Climb a hand and finger crack past a tree and then a couple of small bulges. There's another small tree near the top that's very dead, not worthy of grabbing or slinging. Bolted anchors seemed to be shared with the 5.9 to the right. Might want to protect your second as peeling on the last bit could lead to a swing right into the dihedral.
Pretty far left. Past the Paradise Falls sport routes but before the Message Cave.
Standard rack. Good gear the whole way.
|By Peter Pitocchi|
Nov 22, 2011
Decent climb. I used a 4 and a 3 for the last couple moves. Bolted rap anchors to the right. Next time I want to try the 5.8 to the right that shares same anchor. I agree with 5.7
Jan 20, 2013
Was dry when the other good 5.7's were soaked. Away from the crowds too. There's a fist crack at the top that you can't see from the ground so I recommend cams up to 3". Also there are two trees that can be slung along the way. Fun and safe lead for a new trad climber like myself. Shares anchors with a good 5.8 crack climb to the right.