This is one of gems around here, short approach, good moves, and good adventurous climbing. It is definitely a must do.
P1: Solo a short perfect hands crack (5.8) to an alcove at the base of a large chimney (you can avoid this pitch by climbing a ramp and entering this alcove from the side but it is WAY sketchy!).
P2: Climb a long pitch up the semi-rotten chimney past a few fixed anchors catch a rest and then fire up the fingers in the right-facing chimney on better rock to a hanging belay. 5.10+.
P3: Continue traversing past two fixed anchors to a thin, finger crack. Nail the correct sequence and fire through ten feet of 5.11 to good jams. Continue through a difficult wide section to a rest and continue up the fist crack in perfect chocolate to a belay at in the "rib eye". 5.11+.
P4: Continue free up the heinous, overhanging slot (freed in 2000 by Matt L.) or clip [through] the bolt ladder circumventing the roof to easier ground and the summit. C2 5.9+ / 5.11+.
This is right off the road approximately 100 yards before the first tunnel on a south-facing buttress. The start of the climb is approximately 5 minutes from the road. Great route, stimulating at times, anchors were updated in 2004'. There are no summit anchors. Top out and walk down the road hitching a ride if you can.
Doubles with an extra fist-size, nuts, hexes, maybe a few extra thin finger pieces, long draws.
BETA PHOTO: The Ribbed Buttress.
|By Matthew Seymour|
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Mar 16, 2008
Just a litle more info on the route.
The second pitch climbs fingers in a right-facing corner then goes to hands for the last 25 feet in a left-facing corner.
Additionally, the 3rd pitch as described above can be done in two pitches. There is a two bolt anchor at the "rest." This way is probably more comfortable, unless you want to carry three 4s and a 3 through the 5.11 finger section, and leave your partner in a hanging belay for longer.
Further, the last half of pitch three, after the "rest", does involve offwidth and squeeze, not just fists. The upper half of the pitch is protected with bolts and drilled angles, so there is no need for protection larger than #4 C4s.
Really good route, the first half of the second pitch is mediocre, but the rest climbs good rock with great position.