This short and fun tips splitter is on the right hand side of the main face that rock lobster is on. It begins with some technical moves using the two cracks at the start, and then follows the splitter to a two blt anchor. This climb is unusual in the fact that it has foot-holds to work with. Be carfull of loose rock around the anchor
A jug on a 5.12?
The crux start
|By Jonas Wiklund|
Dec 12, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
I seconded Paco on this route and found it no harder than mid 5.11 with a "cordón umbilical". However: I went back to lead it a few weeks later and took a soft ground fall after having ripped three pieces of shit gear. After that my lead head was shot and I placed a piece of pro every 2 feet, at least, in the soft uninspiring rock. The grade made a bit more sense when pumped from putting in pro everywhere.
Don't use the thin profiled aliens on this route.
|By Tank Evans|
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
I second the feeling of crappy rock, definately bring smaller than green aliens to stich it up.
From: Golden, CO
Jan 18, 2012
Takes some 0 and 00 TCUs, or equivalent. Soft and sandy rock at the start doesn't inspire much confidence in the little cams; sewing it up is definitely justified. Nice moves, though, and probably still worth doing.