Rhythm Method 5.12b R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Chris Weidner, Patrick Vernon, 6/29/06 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Chris Weidner on Jul 11, 2006 |
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Rhythm Method follows the corner out left, with th...
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Rhythm Method climbs the roof-capped, left-leaning corner just left of the 10b finger crack that begins the crux pitch of Between The Sheets.
Start in the corner direct (11- R), or further right as for Between The Sheets. In either case, place gear as high as possible in the 10b finger crack before stepping left into the corner. Wrestle leftward underneath the roof, and climb with difficulty up to the horizontal crack of Dead In Bed. Follow the hands to offwidth crack of Sidewinder straight above the corner, all the way to the top of the formation. The protection is just good enough to prevent a groundfall.
An onsight attempt of this route would be a serious undertaking.
Location Approach: attain the boulder-strewn terrace beneath Rhythm Method via the western descent gully between the Left Book and The Bookmark. Alternatively, one can climb the first two pitches plus a little more of Fantasy Ridge to reach the terrace.
Descent: scramble to the flat top of The Bookmark and locate a two-bolt rap anchor on an arete above the west gully. Rap 100 feet, then downclimb 15 feet of class 4, or make a second rap from slings around a boulder.
Protection 1 each: #0 TCU - #3 TCU, RPs, small-medium nuts, #1 Lowe Ball.
2 each: #0.5 Camalot.
(For wide crack finish, bring 1 each: #0.75 - #3.5 Camalots.)
| Comments on Rhythm Method |
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By PatrickV
Jul 14, 2006
| That was a proud send Chris! Hope to be back on the rock in about a month or so.
-Pat |
By Bob Rotert
May 19, 2008
| Chris, can you elaborate on how this route established. When you say an onsite attempt at this route would be a serious undertaking it sounds like you might be saying the route was previewed or head pointed before the FA? Just trying to get a little more detail on this one. Looks like a proud line! Nice addition Brotha! |
By Chris Weidner
May 28, 2008
| Rhythm Method was established as a headpoint: I toproped it twice (from the anchors on Between The Sheets) before leading it, placing all the gear on lead. Onsighting the route would be serious because the gear at the crux is very poor unless placed perfectly - and even then it may not hold. A very small, inobvious piece and a flared cam protect the crux moves. I hung on TR for awhile tinkering with different gear options before finding those two pieces. Thanks for the comment Bob. |
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