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 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment 
Acid Crack 
Acid Rock 
AHR 
Bihedral 
Bihedral Arete 
Blood Diamond 
Case of the Fags 
Crack Variation 
Dan's Line 
Daydreaming 
Diamonds and Rust 
Dihedral Variation 
Edge of Reality 
Fat Tuesday 
Flags of Our Fathers 
Flesh Eating Flies 
Group Therapy 
Heterohedral 
High Hard One 
Hold The Line 
It's Time For Change 
Just Putin Around 
Left-Handed Tool 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] 
Night Moves 
Oh Boy 
Pariah 
Puff Daddy 
Rhodian Shores 
Rhodian, Naturally 
Sands of Iwo Jima 
Sun Spot 
Thumb Tack 
Tool King 
Trick or Treat 
Where's Ray? 

Rhodian, Naturally 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c R

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: March 1998
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 22, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedr...

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Description 

If you only like/climb sport climbs, ignore this submission. It has later been bordered by couple sport climbs.

This was a little naturally-protected line just L of Bihedral. It certainly may 'ave been climbed previously. Historically speaking, we spied the line in 6/97, Rhodian Shores did not have bolts at that time. Mentioned in brief to a sly Mark (oh, well!) and there were bolts there by the next time we went up to do it 10/97 (we were a wee scooped). No tears. Nonetheless, this natural line weaves a backward-shaped S via 3 crack/groove weaknesses. This is for the tradster who may climb traditionally and ignore bolts. You could clip some of the bolts to make it less runout. It is in the shade in the earlier (10ish) morning hours.

Scramble/climb up to the ledges below the Bihedral. Move L into the groove/crack perhaps 10 feet L of Rhodian Shores (8s). Slightly tricky pro here with wires or brassies, Aliens/small cams and you gain the jug (same jug after Rhodian Shores' crux). Easier moves with a bit of runout take you to the large, nearly-horizontal crack. Good pro with larger cams (#3, 4 Camalots). Traverse R to another groove/crack system. Fiddle in a small cam, step up to a jug (9-s). Easy terrain leads you to either the anchor for Rhodian Shores or the belay for Bihedral.

You could consider this an alternative to P1 of the Bihedral if you've done that a bunch 'o times. You may continue with second pitches Heterohedral or Bihedral.


Protection 

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.



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