Rhodian, Naturally  5.9- R

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  March 1998 Submitted By:  Leo Paik on May 22, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedr...

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Description 

If you only like/climb sport climbs, ignore this submission. It has later been bordered by couple sport climbs.

This was a little naturally-protected line just L of Bihedral. It certainly may 'ave been climbed previously. Historically speaking, we spied the line in 6/97, Rhodian Shores did not have bolts at that time. Mentioned in brief to a sly Mark (oh, well!) and there were bolts there by the next time we went up to do it 10/97 (we were a wee scooped). No tears. Nonetheless, this natural line weaves a backward-shaped S via 3 crack/groove weaknesses. This is for the tradster who may climb traditionally and ignore bolts. You could clip some of the bolts to make it less runout. It is in the shade in the earlier (10ish) morning hours.

Scramble/climb up to the ledges below the Bihedral. Move L into the groove/crack perhaps 10 feet L of Rhodian Shores (8s). Slightly tricky pro here with wires or brassies, Aliens/small cams and you gain the jug (same jug after Rhodian Shores' crux). Easier moves with a bit of runout take you to the large, nearly-horizontal crack. Good pro with larger cams (#3, 4 Camalots). Traverse R to another groove/crack system. Fiddle in a small cam, step up to a jug (9-s). Easy terrain leads you to either the anchor for Rhodian Shores or the belay for Bihedral.

You could consider this an alternative to P1 of the Bihedral if you've done that a bunch 'o times. You may continue with second pitches Heterohedral or Bihedral.

Protection 

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.