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Rhode Island
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Rhode Island Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.80714, -71.40564 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: M Sprague, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe M. on Jul 30, 2010
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Ryan MacGlaflin topping out the boulder.

Description 

Rhode Island might be the smallest state in the union, but it has plenty to offer climbing wise if you are a fan of its more diminutive form. There is a well developed bouldering community here, with the main focus being Lincoln Woods State Park, just north west of Providence. Being close to the city and its numerous colleges, the boulders and ledges of the 600+ acre park have been climbed on extensively since the early 70s. The quality, number of routes and fact that it is often free of snow when other places are covered means frequent visitors from the neighboring states as well, all who have helped add lines and upped the grades. There are hundreds of established lines, currently up to V13-14.

Less well known, smaller, but sometimes high quality areas are scattered around the state, mostly in the western half, in the various management areas. If you want to take a break from the somewhat urban experience of Lincoln Woods and maybe find some new lines, exploring these other areas is recommended. There are gems out there, like the excellent Lost Boulder, a lone boulder of impeccable granite. It is found in the Arcadia Management Area, an area developed in the past, but with new spots popping up.

There is not much for roped climbing. Unfortunately, the best areas for that have been closed, like Diamond Hill and Long Pond. There is a bit of fairly short top roping available on the ledges of Durfee Hill, Snake Den, Mt. Tom and Breakheart Ledge (Arcadia), Beach Pond and Wickaboxet. For nearby roped climbing, you are usually better off heading over the border to Connecticut or Mass.

Getting There 

The smallest state in the U.S., south of Massachusetts and east of Connecticut.

Beta 

Rhode Island is a fairly urban area and as such, the most popular climbing area, Lincoln Woods, tends to reflect that. There is not much camping available. However, the climbing is challenging and interesting and there is a vibrant local community.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 5.2 miles from here

833 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',32],['3 Stars',201],['2 Stars',327],['1 Star',253],['Bomb',10]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',139],['V2-3',317],['V4-5',149],['V6-7',108],['V8-9',69],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',42],['>=V14',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Rhode Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Rhode Island:
The Standard Route   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   Connors Farm : The Cirque
The Wave   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   Lincoln Woods : Great Slab / Wave Boulder
The Lost Problem (aka Suicide Girls?)   V2+ 5+     Boulder   Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : Split Rock
Mack's Traverse   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 25'   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Mack's traverse
The Quiet Buddhist   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
Peace Dove   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   Lincoln Woods : Peace Dove Boulder
Neil's Lunge   V4- 6B     Boulder, 12'   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Warm Up Cave
Iron Cross   V4 6B     Boulder   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Iron Cross Boulder
The Pond Cave Traverse   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
Heart of Glass   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Lincoln Woods : Heart Boulder
Try Again   V5 6C     Boulder   Lincoln Woods : Try Again Boulder
Sit Down Traverse   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : Split Rock
The Executioner   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Lincoln Woods : The Tombstone
Loadies Zen   V6-7 7A+     Boulder   Lincoln Woods : Try Again Boulder
Last Call   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Lincoln Woods : Talus Boulder
Leap Frog   V7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
Who Needs Hueco   V8 7B     Boulder, 8'   Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
Barbed Wire   V8-9 7B+     Boulder   Lincoln Woods : Tuolumne Boulder
hueco dreams   V9- 7C     Boulder, 18'   Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
Chemical   V9+ 7C     Boulder, 12'   Lincoln Woods : The Egg
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Rhode Island

Featured Route For Rhode Island
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of me climbing the Quite Buddhist Photo by...

The Quiet Buddhist V3 6A  Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
Another great moderate at the pond cave. Start on a jug in the back of the cave just left of the pond cave traverse crack. Make your way up and left along the lip with heel hooks and some cool incut sidepulls under the lip. Top out when you reach the high point....[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Comments on Rhode Island Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 30, 2016
By irujo
Apr 1, 2012
Has anyone ever looked at the boulders near Cranston High School WEST? You can see a few of the smaller ones if you park on the corner of Phenix ave and Metropolitan Ave, in Cranston. Their seems to be a lot of potentail! Theres trails there so I don't think its private property.

If you follow the trails for about 10 minutes you will come across a few boulders 15+ feet. Let me know if anyone knows anything about this area or if your interested. =)
By Dana Seaton
Apr 1, 2012
Jeremy Wall has done some climbing back there I think. I do not have much in the way of details. Get out there and bring back some beta.
By joshuamason401
From: Troy, NY
Jul 2, 2012
Found a pretty decent boulder in Westerly. Have you guys experienced this thing, any routes up on it already?
By Harry Marinakis
Jul 22, 2013
Back in the early-to-mid 1970s we did a lot of climbing on Aquidneck Island. We were in high school.

Our favorite was a long scrambling traverse of the eastern sea cliffs from Black Point to Third Beach.

The quarry in Newport was another favorite. I'll see if I can find some photos from BITD.

There was also a small cliff in Portsmouth (the Hummocks) near the Tiverton Bridge. We used to rap and top rope there. Anyone know anything about this cliff?

We also poached some climbing along Hanging Rock near Newport. We did it in the winter because no one was around at that time of year. We did long girdle traverse of this 2,000-foot long formation.

Rock Climbing Photo: Winter cragging at Hanging Rock
Winter cragging at Hanging Rock


Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging Rock girdle traverse
Hanging Rock girdle traverse


Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging Rock girdle traverse
Hanging Rock girdle traverse


Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging Rock girdle traverse
Hanging Rock girdle traverse


Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in the Hummocks, Portsmouth
Climbing in the Hummocks, Portsmouth
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 23, 2013
Fun history. Keep it coming. I would like to see more. By the way, what kind of rope is that? Did it come from the old Outdoorsman? I have heard stories of the guys there, later friends of them, selling static rope to the Smith brothers for leading when they were kids. It would have been about the same time. I suppose it didn't matter as much with a hip belay.
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 28, 2013
I have heard about a quarry near Providence that people dive off of into the water from much height. The walls are supposed to be about seventy feet high.
Quarries have inherit blasted out rock loose rock risks, but if people are swimming an diving there, it seems reasonable climbers could send some routes. I'll get back about the name of the place and likely other quarries the rascalians visiting here, are probably trespassing.
By Harry Marinakis
Aug 4, 2013
The rope is goldline.

Here are some photos of the Newport Quarry, circa 1975. In the 2nd photo I see both goldline and kernmantle rope.
Rock shoes: PAs
Harness: Whillans sit harness
Helmet: Joe Brown
Rock Climbing Photo: Newport Quarry, circa 1975
Newport Quarry, circa 1975

Rock Climbing Photo: Newport Quarry, circa 1975
Newport Quarry, circa 1975
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Aug 9, 2013
Bradley,

The only place I know of that fits that description is the limestone quarry off of RT 146 and Wilbur Road in Lincoln. It is an active quarry and you will probably get arrested. If you know of another place I'd love to hear about it.
Brian

>>bradley white
>>Jul 28, 2013

>I have heard about a quarry near Providence that people dive off of into the water from much height. The walls are supposed to be about seventy feet high.
Quarries have inherit blasted out rock loose rock risks, but if people are swimming an diving there, it seems reasonable climbers could send some routes. I'll get back about the name of the place and likely other quarries the rascalians visiting here, are probably trespassing.
By marctroob
Oct 13, 2013
i added about 20+ problems today to the Buckeye Brook area which is out near Burlingame. I found and old notebook from 2001 when were were climbing out there a bunch and it had a hand drawn topo of the area with a bunch of the names and route info... Check it out and tell me what you think... we are going to get the pics updated and added were needed to make it a more complete section..
MT
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 14, 2013
Thanks, Marc. I moved some of the old photos into the sub areas and routes you made. I would be nice to get some better ones.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 13, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Damn! Happens so often in RI..great boulder right ...
Damn! Happens so often in RI..great boulder right next to somebody's house
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 15, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Save the boulders! Likely to be crushed :( In a so...
Save the boulders! Likely to be crushed :( In a south county gravel pit with no legal access



Rock Climbing Photo: another view
another view
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 15, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: ..and here is its sister. She's big!
..and here is its sister. She's big!


..of course I am not suggesting anything
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 15, 2015
If anyone is local to Hope Valley, I found a boulder just into the woods between Rts 3 and 95. Go north on 3 out of town past the state police barracks and park fully off the road on the right a few hundred feet before you get to the entrance ramp for 95 South. Walk up the embankment and into the woods a little and it should be obvious. Unfortunately there probably isn't anything hard on it and you will wish it was a little bigger, but it has lots of holds and the rock is really good quality. It might be worth cleaning up for quick hits on a bunch of eliminates after work or school if you don't have the time to run all the way up to Arcadia. There is a little more rock closer to the highway. Warning, the cops drive by there all the time and if they see you will probably be wondering what you are doing.
By Nickgrai
Jun 27, 2015
Has anyone ever climbed at the old rocky point amusement park area ? There's a massive amount of rocks to climb there. Its now open the public. Im amazed it hasn't made it to this site yet.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rocky point
Rocky point
By Joe M.
Jun 29, 2015
Yes, there has been climbing there for many years, it was all under the radar since it was private land until recently. Planning on adding it to MP once I can get some info on the routes and problems that are there. Big score for the RI community that this didn't get developed into houses!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 29, 2015
It will be great to have that info, Joe, now that it is legal.

Rock Climbing Photo: Old picture of somebody on Magic Carpet. Disguised...
Old picture of somebody on Magic Carpet. Disguised to protect the guilty.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Apr 30, 2016
I'm not sure if any of you are aware of this, I wasn't, but the RI State Park Regulations have changed with regard to rock climbing. It use to just say that rock climbing was permitted in all state parks and management areas except for Fort Wetherill. It now requires a waiver of liability (section below). You can get a copy of the waiver here: climbri.org/DEM-Waiver.pdf You may want to have a copy in your car or pack in case a DEM cop ever asks for it.

"17.9 Rock climbing is permitted at state parks, and management areas except at Fort Wetherill State Park, Jamestown. However, in State Park Areas individuals participating in rock climbing activities must sign a release and waiver of liability (a copy of which is attached hereto and designated as Appendix # 1) prior to commencement of rock climbing activity. For organized group of any size, a group must submit a Special Use Application to the Chief of the Division of Parks and Recreation and obtain prior written approval of said Application. In addition, each member of the group of participants must sign Appendix #1 prior to commencement of any rock climbing activities in the State Parks. If the organized group is being sponsored by a commercial entity, the sponsor must provide evidence of the issuance of liability insurance in the amount of at least One Million ($1,000,000.00) Dollars naming the State of Rhode Island as an additional insured at the time of the submittal of its Special Use Application."

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