RhinoBuckets 

True that this route may not be for everyone due to its' technical stemming and spicy moves above bolts, but that does not make it a route to be forgotten. On the contrary, it is a good test of intestinal fortitude (in other words: keeping your s**t together!).

Also, at about mid-height on the route, there is a hold--a big, juggy, hold--that, if looked at the right way, resembles a rhino's horn.

Absolutely recommended!

By the description I'd say you have every reason to do the route again.... I agree that there is only one "bucket" on the climb, but the route is well worthwhile and not too spicy once you learn the foot work and body positions.... As for clipping the anchors, don't clip them until you find the clipping hold and get comfortable.... There is a good hold up there....

The start can be a bit wet....

Perhaps I should, Lee.

I remember feeling like this climb wasn't fun. To add to my dislike for the climb, my climbing partner has told me it was 5.8, and I was using it to burn out for the day. Only after climbing it did I look at the guidebook. Consequently, I've always had a sour taste in my mouth about this one.

Also, I don't climb with that climbing partner anymore.

Ladd, you wrote that "Clipping the anchors is by far the crux of this climb and shouldn't be attempted by a leader who isn't comfortable at the grade."

Are you suggesting that the new leader jump from the anchors without clipping them? I know this is common practice on climbs such as Whip Tide and Predator, but I wonder if this "technique" has made it's way to the Meadows.

Jay,
The victory whip from this climb would be bloody, I was just suggesting a leader try the climb first on TR to find the anchor clipping hold so that an unintentional victory-whip doesn't happen.

Ah, the dreaded unintentional victory whip...

Yes... The not-quite, less-than, kinda-sorta-but-not, victory whip.

Of course, you could downrate the climb to 5.8+ C1 and grab the chains....

C1? Those chains are fixed. I'd say 5.8+ C0 tops.

ok... C0

Pretty funny Jay, I know absolutely nothing about rating aid climbing, I almost put down C0 but I didn't know if the rating existed...so I chose C1, I remember seeing that rating somewhere.

Now, of course too late, I've actually educated myself a bit and understand the difference.

you know, this is getting to be pretty funny. This climb actually holds a pretty warm spot in my heart as it was my first 5.10 onsight (maybe not a true onsight as I had known the grade and probably seen somebody on it once as I had frequented the meadows a bit before) and I found the climbing pretty interesting. I was however, fresh from warming up and at the early part of my day, not tired and sandbagged.

I actually enjoyed the climb (except the ending part with the chains, that is a difficult move)

I enjoyed this route and I really enjoyed the last few moves I like moves that get my heart racing and make me nervous, it is sort of crazy but when I am on something I could get hurt on if I fell I actually feel almost more comfortable... but I am a weird one sometimes.

i really wanted to get on this but when i went to do it there was a bees nest on it..... talk about a bummer

Mike next time you are out be sure to get on it, I think it is really fun route but don't let your head get to you when clipping the chains, but overall great route.

the second bolt is in kinda poor shape at the moment...

Lee,
Bad bolt/sleeve or spinning hanger?
I remember several spinners on this route when I last climbed it (in 2009).

Speaking of spinner, is the 7th or 8th hanger on Flesh still
on the bolt? I remembered someone replacing it last year because it had fallen off!

Thanks,
-SNeoh

didnt look super close but the hanger was spinning, the hanger looked bent and the bolt looked a little funky like more threads were exposed than should be...

This bolt is a wedge bolt and has no sleeve so it cant come out. The nut must be loose. If I get a chance I will check it out and fix it.

Not my favorite of the Meadows climbs, but I'm sure with a lot of work it could be made less awkward. As an onsight, it was terrible and pumpy to work through and into the groove. I did enjoy several of the moves in the middle to end of the groove. Any fun I had was over-shadowed by the ledge fall potential from the anchor, the wet start and awkward moves into the groove.

As for clipping the anchors, I have never said the words "clipping, take, and ready to lower" in such quick succession. It went something like "CLIPPI-TA-READY TO LOWER!"

There is an anchor clipping jug at the very top of this climb, higher than the anchors, and about 18 inches to the right. I did not find any of the moves particularly awkward. The start is tricky when wet which is often the case in the Spring and Summer.