With the capital of Mainz, Rheinland-Pfalz contains a section of the Rhein river littered with castles, rieslings, crags, and a mermaid. The Lorelei is known to sing beautiful songs and comb her beautiful hair, luring captains to wreck their ships on her rock.
There are many low lying mountain chains that leave the Rhein and Moselle rivers. Wine (particularly riesling) is the major export. Another major import of the past are the Amish that have settled the mid-USA.
The red sandstone cliffs of the Pfälzerwald are certainly irresistible to a climber. Much of the climbing lies in a national park (Pfälzerwald naturpark). Ettringen, Kottenheim and Mayen have given us immaculate basalt quarry face and crack climbs. There are also amazing limestone crags in this state.
From Braxtron's description of the Südpfalz:
Loads of sandstone towers hidden behind tall, lush pine trees, scattered throughout the Pfalz area in SW Germany.
Whether you like 'old school' trad climbing on sandstone towers or prefer 'new school' hard, sport climbs, you'll likely find what you're looking for. Many summits can be reached by hiking, and you can throw a TR on some routes.
Warning: 70m and 80m ropes are often used by Euroclimbers. You may see other parties using only one rope for a climb, but don't assume your puny 60m will reach the ground.
If you're from US & A, you've probably grown quite fond of your chalkbag. Unfortunately, you may have to do without as the usage of chalk is frowned upon due to strict ethics and environmental concerns. Don't be surprised if someone politely asks you to put your Magnesia (chalk) away, then flicks their cigarette butt on the ground, and begins climbing in a banana hammock.
Mehr Information auf Deutsch: www.on-sight.de/gebiete/index.html?pfalz_ge.html
Fly to Frankfurt, get on the DB to your crag of choice. Another cheap option is to fly into Frankfurt-Hahn on Ryanair, where tickets for less than $10 can be purchased.
14 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Rheinland-Pfalz
Großer Südriss 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Europe
: ... : Pferchfeldturm (Tower)
This thing is super cool! Having said that, there are plenty of people who hate this route too...It's the obvious and impressive first crack you come to upon walking around the southern side of the tower. It starts with a difficult fingers section (keep to the right to make it easier) and then opens up to some nice hands and broadens into some tight chimney climbing. Then you climb out a roof and continue up easier rock.At the top, you can either stop at the last ring or continue to the absolute...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Sep 24, 2008
You can climb all routes with a 50m rope.
You just can't link pitches then.
Rapelling is no problem with 50m, absolutely never a problem with 60m rope.
|By Mike Lydon|
From: park city, utah
Oct 6, 2010
Nice sandstone in beautiful forest. Worth a look if you are in the area. Go to a place called barenbrunnerhof near Dahn for beta, gear, camping and possible partners. There is good climbing within walking distance of the hof also.