Revolt of the Dike Brigade
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first pitch, first bolt
This is the first route to the left of the popular Beelzebub corner Look for three bolts on a steep face.
Pitch 1. Make interesting moves off the ground to the first bolt. Make even more interesting and strenuous moves to reach the second bolt. Next, move up and left making some awesome body tension moves to a jug and the third bolt. Traverse right and then back left to the anchors.
Pitch 2. Move up and left from the belay following a tricky left angling dike protected by pins. Move straight up a difficult slab to bolt protection to the end of the arch on Beelzebub, or you can move right after the last bolt and finish with the 5.9 crux on Reign of Fire
and belay from the bolt anchors on Loose Lips.
Directly after the Ethereal Buttress, left of the Beelzebub corner.
Small to medium cams and nuts, quick draws, and a couple of shoulder slings to reduce rope drag.
From: Eaton Center, New Hampshire
Jun 21, 2009
Guidebooks give this an R which it no longer deserves. Quite a bit harder if you're 5'8" or less though...
Between bolt #2 and #3, staying left of the fall line is very balancy, moving right of the fall line is more reachy and strenuous. Choose your own adventure!
By burlap submariner
Oct 4, 2009
gabe, guidebooks give it an R rating because on the first ascent Ed Webster placed two pitons on the lead on the first pitch flake, then pins were removed for a number of years until the route was re-bolted. The crux is well protected but getting to the third bolt is a little heady.