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Revocation of Bail
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver |
Page Views: | 611 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Desicon on Jan 28, 2008 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
75 feet of fairly committed climbing with a good many 5.9 to 5.10a moves; an upper body intensive route. Mixed face, lay-back, and a couple of knuckle shearing crack jams. About 55 feet up you'll hit the crux, a shallow, rounded grove leading to a "spur" of rock. You can swing-sink a large hex on a four foot runner from the stance below, if you want the FA experience, or use the bolt. Move up and left, grip the edge of the spur, and swing a leg up over it, then pull like mad (5.10c).
Once through the crux, the are still a few 5.9 to 5.10a moves to cover the closing series to the cold shuts. FUN!
Once through the crux, the are still a few 5.9 to 5.10a moves to cover the closing series to the cold shuts. FUN!
Location
On the East Face of Hollin. Below the Celebrimbor Crack continue on the path eastward toward the creek. As late as 1998 this path dribbled out by the SE corner of Hollin and some scrambling through manzanita thickets and down a few 10 foot boulders was the fastest way to reach the eastern wall. About halfway north along this face (and thankfully out of the thickets) there is a discontinuous crack system and face zone with three bolts.
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