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review my fixed rope solo set up

Original Post
mac gilbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 110

Hey all,

I was out last night on a fixed rope solo set up trying to get a bunch of laps in after work. I was wondering if anyone has any constructive comments on the set up. I used a single dynamic rope and fixed it to two bolts at the top of the climb. I redirected the rope where needed to avoid long swinging falls. I self belayed with a gri gri 2 attached to my harness with steel locker to address cross loading. Backed myself up with a overhand knot below the gri gri about every 15-20 ft. Placed a biner in each bite created by the overhand knot to prevent the knot from coming undone. My thinking was if the gri gri does not lock up, that i will be stopped by the knot below me. I am looking for potential flaws with this system/ mechanisms of failure. I am aware of other systems to use (ex. use an ascender and the same rope, use a second rope for redundancy, etc). I attached a quick picture i made. its pretty high-quality, so enjoy! Flaws i can see are:

1 if the gri gri fails before the first knot is made.
2 if gri gri fails and you are caught by a knot, but the knot is low down and due to rope stretch you deck.
3 time to make each knot one handed (which wasnt as bad as i thought it would be)
4 single rope

Thanks

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BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

Any reason why you did not use two ropes, or double your single over at the middle (tie eight or similar) so that you would have two strands to work off for redundancy?

I see you are utilizing back-up knots which is good.

Edit to add:
When you say, "I redirected the rope where needed to avoid long swinging falls." did you fix the rope to something? If you redirected the rope, once you fall are you going to make the rope come plumb at the anchor thus negating your redirection of the rope? This could cause possible abrasion/cut issues and possible hung-up rope left precariously hanging and waiting to snap taut. Can you explain more about this?

mac gilbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 110

I have done that in the past when i have been concerned that an edge somewhere might cut the rope. In this situation, the wall was flat and i did not see any edges or other features that could cut the rope. With the strength of the rope being so great, i am not worried about the rope failing on its own. Only about potential cuts to it.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
petzl.com/en/Sport/General-…

my suggestions is to go pick up at least a microcender ... or use a microtraxion or other such ascender if you have such

the ~50$ you spend on a microcender is worth the much less faff, and its a more reliable device

as to "backing up" ... see petzls suggestion on using the second rope and clipping it to yourself

my other VERY STRONG suggestion is to find someone safe and experienced to show you how to rope solo safely

theres been accidents of folks rope soloing

you are on the wall by yourself and need to be absolutely confident in your technical skills ... as well as able to escape any situation

learning how to do so on an intraweb forums aint the best idea ...

;)
Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

Have you thought about using a Soloist or Silent Partner instead of the GriGri?

2 ropes is good idea

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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