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Reverso 4 and Twin/Double Ropes
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Nov 5, 2012
Has anyone used the Reverso 4 for 8.1 twin/double ropes? What do you think? How was the rappel? Smooth and controlled? Or scary, fast and hand-burning.

Kar Red
Joined Mar 7, 2012
0 points
Nov 5, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
I have not used a Reverse 4 with 8.1 ropes, but a little trick to add friction to a rappel is to add several 'biners to your set up. Clip them through the rope and the keeper wire on the device but not your belay loop. Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
300 points
Nov 5, 2012
I have 8.1mm PMIs and a Reverso 4. Works fine for belaying off your harness or autoblocking off the anchor. I had no issues rappelling with it, but I guess you can add friction with another biner as mentioned above if needed. The Reverso works well with my skinnies and my 9.8, but not so great with fat ropes like 10.5mm. It's sort of a bitch to thread it with fat ropes and an even bigger bitch to pay out rope while belaying. Superclimber
Joined Mar 7, 2009
1,481 points
Nov 5, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get t...
It works fine rappelling in high-friction mode. If not just add more friction and/or use a glove. I have even done a few single rope simul-rappels on 8.1's and it went OK with an extra 'biner in the system. Mike
From Phoenix
Joined May 16, 2006
2,770 points
Nov 6, 2012
also if you extend the rap of a leash it gives you better braking IMO ... if yr really worried use a prussik bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
3,068 points
Nov 6, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: hotlum / bolum route on Shasta
I've used the reverso 4 with Mammut phoenix 8.0mm ropes without any issues. Josh Wood
From Oneonta, NY
Joined Nov 16, 2011
15 points

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