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 ADVANCED
Glade Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Corner Fault T 
Escaping the Torch T 
Fault Line T 
Faulty Mood T 
Itís A Line, Dammit S 
Reverse Fault T 

Reverse Fault 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: David Sampson and Arjun Heimsath
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011

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Description 

Immediately left of Faulty Mood (right of Escaping the Torch). Start below a shallow roof, clip a bolt and pull up and over to establish on the face. Clip another bolt about 8 feet higher. Climb the crack system up and slightly right, and then back left toward another bolt that leads past a steep section to small roof. Continue up past another bolt to the anchors.

Named for the reverse and downclimb strategy by AMH during the ground up FA up to the crux protected by the third bolt. After placing two sketchy nuts and suffering from forearm burn, AMH reversed and reached the top by climbing the chimney past the tree. Addition of the bolt makes the crux a steep and fun section slightly overhung. Protects well.

Location 

Just to the right of the wide crack. See route map.

Protection 

Single rack up to one inch.


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By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 1, 2011

Excellent route. One of my favorites out here.
By David Arthur Sampson
Feb 13, 2012

Mine too!