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Reveille 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 516
Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Jan 5, 2003
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  • Description 

    This is a semi-trad variation of "Rise and Shine". After the first 5 bolts on "R&S" (.10d) stay right, in the dihedral for another 40' aiming for the anchors on "R&S". The route follows the old aid line in the corner until the aid line takes on the big roof pierced by a thin crack. The upper dihedral is mostly .9+ until the very end (.10b) before the anchor.

    This is a fun variation that gives an up-close view of the tempting but intimidating huge wave of rock covering this nicely sheltered alcove.


    Protection 

    5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 90'. Gear to #3 Friend. Long slings on first two bolts.



    Comments on Reveille Add Comment
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    By Rich Farnham
    Jan 30, 2011

    The trad part of this pitch has some great rests, unlike most of the climbs on this section of the wall. Some of the placements are a little funky, but there's more gear than appears from the ground. I was able to sew it up.

    Great pitch! Unusual moves through the bolted section, with some great climbing on the steep finish. Strenuous to actually clip the anchor.

    By Greg Miller
    From: boulder, co
    Nov 19, 2013

    Very fun route and great warm up. You really only need a few pieces, medium offset master cams are helpful. 5.10.