Return to Gariwerd  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  P1: Shepherd & Mentz - 1991 P2: Janes & Nuttelman - 2004 Submitted By:  Josh Janes on Jan 28, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Starting up Return to Gjdahsdhfaje...or whatever i...

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Description 

Return to Gariwerd is a stunning thin crack and face climb on the Eureka Towers which sit just above and left of the Eureka Wall. Head up past the Wall and begin on the righthand edge of the Eureka Towers at an obvious, sheer orange and grey face with a crack that gradually thins and gives way to diagonal slash-marks on the face.

P1: Ascend the increasingly difficult crack until it gives way to face climbing up the slash-marked face (protected but small wires). Ultimately arrive at a stance under a roof with a good natural belay off of a thread and a horn. 5.11-.

P2: Hand traverse straight left from the belay for 40 feet under the roof. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds are more spaced. Finally pull the roof at a weakness and continue up easy, low angle rock to a natural anchor. Two rappels off slung features back to the ground. 5.10+.

Protection 

Standard rack, emphasis on small gear.

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Halfway up the original first pitch.