Return To Forever 

Wendell Broussard: "Those quarter inchers are suicidal, they were bad when the route was new." Fun route, I don't know if Matt saw this or not, but the Punks tried to drill under the roof and broke a bit, which STILL sticks out of a hole right by the crack. I'd reccommend trying other routes until the top anchor gets replaced (ran out of time last day in the area). One option is TRing from Mazatlan anchor til then, but if you fall you'll pendulum a bit. I think some people have rapped Miss Conception with 2 ropes but again top anchor is no bueno+mandatory traversing on crunch rock is a sure thing.

I saw the broken drill bit below the roof, it was my high point after running out of gear on my first attempt. The second attempt proved more successful and I finished the whole thing. The anchors at the top should be replaced, but luckily some other bolted lines exist near by the bail from if you don't mind a little airy traversing. This is certainly a heads up route, with great climbing! I think a bolted anchor/rap above the obvious end of the wide crack would be a pretty ideal pitch, making the last pitch optional and avoiding the old quarter inches all together.