Return of the Chucklehead's  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Leo and Wenzel Submitted By:  Corey Morris on May 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Paul Wagener leading the crux of "??". 17 May '09.

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Description 

Pitch 1: Another tricky start to the crack that goes straight then angles right to the crux. Good gear stance to fish in small wires before the crux move. Then 4th class angling right to a one move pull on a ledge. On the north end of the air spire are 2 bolt anchors. The anchors at the top of this climb are not the same anchors as "Air". 5.9


Pitch 2: From belay anchor look right and take the chimney to the top of the spire. Two bolt anchors at top and allow for rappel to base just barely with a 60m rope. Tie knots on the ends and aim just right of the tree on 4th class ledges when you toss your rope.
Good fun climb. 5.6/7

Location 

From "Air" go directly down hill and turn left, this is the right-hand crack on this wall.

Protection 

Standard rack. 2 really small wires to protect crux move. Some larger cams for the 2nd pitch. Pro seemed good.

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Paul Wagener on the "??" 5.9 on Air Spire.