Retrospade  5.11c/d

733 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.11c/d [details] FA:  Tom Armstrong, 1986 Submitted By:  Chris Duca on Nov 21, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Classic blunt arete climbing that is unrelenting and not so straight forward.

Climb just to the left the rounded arete shared with the start of Ten of Spades. balance your way up the vertical face using incuts and some high-stepping magic to gain the diagonal crack.

At this point place that #1 Camalot you toted along with you in the crack, and make some tenuous moves back up and right to gain the next series of crimps protected by several more bolts to the top where the angle lessens and the climbing becomes noticably easier.

Location 

On the right side of the cliff is the route Ten of Spades. This route climbs jsut to the left on the face.

Protection 

5 or 6 bolts and a #1 Camalot. chain anchors.