Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
a. The Uberfall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
BB Route 
Birthday Biscuit Boy 
Black Fly 
Brat Direct, The 
Bridal Path 
CC Route 
Crimson Corner 
Das Wiggles 
DD Route 
Dirty Chimney 
Dirty Gerdie 
Double Chin 
Double Clutch 
Easy Keyhole 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The 
Fancy Idiot 
Fitschen's Folly 
Flake, The 
Handy Andy 
Heel Hook and Hack-it 
Herdie Gerdie 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang 
Jacob's Ladder 
Ken's Crack 
Low Exposure 
Lower Eaves 
Mitty Mouse  
Nice 5.9 Climb 
Nice Crack Climb 
No Picnic 
No Solution 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) 
Red Cabbage 
Red Cabbage Right 
Shit or Go Blind 
Short Job 
Squiggles Direct 
Stupid Crack 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation 
Susie A 
Trapped Like a Rat 
Uberfall Descent 
Walter Mitty 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Art Gran, Peter Himot, 1958. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1961
Page Views: 5,355
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (124)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Jeff Arliss underneath the crux
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is the companion route to the left of Nosedive. I thought that this route was harder than Nosedive, but once you figure out the move it is not too bad.

P1: Follow a right-facing dihedral to the left of Nosedive to a small roof. The gear leading up to the roof and past the crux can be tricky. Once you make the hard move at the roof, the climbing eases off. Head right at the top, and join Nosedive at the 2-bolt anchor. Rap with one rope.


Gear to 2.5"

Photos of Retribution Slideshow Add Photo
In the crux.  (photo by Dave Merle)
In the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)
Sweet climb!
Sweet climb!
Above the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)
Above the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)
Nearing the top
Nearing the top
Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No Solution goes up the middle.
BETA PHOTO: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...
Pulling through the crux
Pulling through the crux
Comments on Retribution Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Nickel
Jun 5, 2006

A great route! 5.10b, three stars, PG gear (a reasonably safe onsight lead). Not as sustained as Nosedive but with a harder crux.

By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2007

I found this route to be much easier and less sustained than Nosedive, probably because I'm "short". There's basically one hard crank on a rounded crimp pulling over the roof. The rest is much easier. Great rock, but its getting pretty polished.

By BenCooper
From: Chicago, IL
Oct 12, 2008

I found that my key piece of pro at the roof ate up the key undercling; it was a choice between a solid piece or good hold. Great route.

Apr 27, 2009

the undercling isn't "key" there is a solid meat hook on the arete. this leaves the undercling open for a perfect yellow alien.

By chewtoynj
May 28, 2010

a .75 camalot fits nicely below the roof. It looks weird, but works well, leaving the undercling accessable and protected. my second gunks 5.10 onsight.

By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
May 19, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Today I watched Tommy Caldwell cruise it in completely soaking wet conditions.

Extra fun fact: He climbed it in approach shoes and no chalk.

By SketchySam
Nov 15, 2011

I love this route. Super fun, sustained and great pro. Somehow this route gets rated a PG but Bunny to the left gets rated a G. I actually think it's the opposite. I remember being able to place as much pro as anyone could ever want on Retribution but I remember the pro on Bunny being kind of sketchy.

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Placed an odd-looking .75 behind the "rest jug" before the crux moves instead of placing pro in the finger pocket. Doing so made the crux much much easier. Above the crux the are a few good rests and then a tougher move(maybe 5.9 or so) to a good jug.

Also fell from a few feet above the .75 a few weeks ago and it held fine.