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 ADVANCED
Cap Rock - North Face
Routes Sorted
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Black Ice T 
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Circus, Circus T 
Event Horizon T 
False Lieback T 
False Prophet T 
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 
Lil Squirt S 
Nutcracker T 
Retirement T 
Space Odyssey T 

Retirement 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Dan Hugglestein, September 1987
Page Views: 338
Submitted By: Blitzo on May 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: "Retirement". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Climb a thin crack to the left of "Nutcracker", then up past horizontal cracks and face with a bolt.

Protection 

Small, bolt.


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By Mary Moser
May 22, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

We did this route on TR and found the moves to be pretty stout for 10a. However, it was a very fun climb. The thin crack at the start was a pumpy yet delicate lieback and the face move at the bolt above was tough.
By verticalbound
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

I would definitely agree with previous comment, the layback at the beginning is definitely 10a but the face move at the top is prolly a/b if the bolt was higher it would be a solid B. Fun route though.
By TYeary
Administrator
From: Arcadia, Califoria
Mar 6, 2014

" prolly a/b if the bolt was higher it would be a solid B"
Really? You probably want to think this one through. Fun climb anyway!