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 ADVANCED
Retirement Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
COLA (Cost of Living Allowance). S 
Early Bird Special S 
Fixed Income S 
Let the Daylight In S 
NW Arete T 
Second Career S 
Senior Discount S 

Retirement Rock  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Location: 39.985, -105.4413 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,540
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jan 25, 2006
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Description 

West-facing. Good late afternoon sun in the winter months. Five routes so far.

L->R:

A. Second Career, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Senior Discount, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. NW Arete, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
D. Let the Daylight In, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
E1. Early Bird Special, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
E2. Fixed Income, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. COLA (Cost of Living Allowance)., 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.

Getting There 

From Boulder: drive up Boulder Canyon to Nip and Tuck crag. Continue past Nip and Tuck for 0.3 miles to a large RTD parking area/pullout on the left. Park at the far west-end of the parking area. Cross the creek at a 20-mile per hour sign and look for a rock cairn on the south side of the creek. Angle up and right along a lower rock wall to reach the upper (Retirement Rock) wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.1 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Retirement Rock:
Let the Daylight In   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Retirement Rock

Featured Route For Retirement Rock
COLA.

COLA (Cost of Living Allowance). 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  CO : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock
This is presently the dirtiest route on the rock but would clean up nicely if it were really brushed down. I an not sure that climbing alone will do it, as climbers of different heights would want to flag/smear in different places and the wall is presently quite covered in dusty lichen.Start up on hard moves (high foot) to pass a bulge on sidepulls and do more of the same to struggle to the top. Sidepulls, body English, slopers and opposition eventually land you up and left to a 2-bolt anchor wi...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Retirement Rock
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By djoseph
Sep 22, 2008
Question on the approach: we crossed the creek at the 30 mph sign (not 20, per the description) across from Nursing Home, and came to a clearing with a cairn. However, couldn't see a path and didn't want to crash through the rather thick brush if there is a trail somewhere...I prefer to limit impact on the foliage. Is there a path/trail that I missed, or do you have to bushwhack through?
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Sep 22, 2008
I'm not sure of the speed limit sign, but you should cross at the far west (up river) end of the parking lot. There used to be a cairn on a big rock on the other side. Then head up a short steep hill, and then angle up stream. The trail grows in and I may need to get there and clip the growth back.
By djoseph
Sep 23, 2008
Thanks Greg. I'll probably wait another few weeks until the leaves drop from the bushes... probably will be easy to find the path then.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 28, 2010
I didn't read the trail beta and found the "direct" uphill approach pretty nasty. The river crossing was below the kneecap, but man, the overgrowth! I should have read/found the trail, but didn't. That said, if you like red rasberries, man is this the place for you. Big, fat rasberries everywhere, all you can eat. Enjoy it, it's as thick as they get.

If you do go here, please do everyone a favor and take a large wire brush - the routes could use a little more cleaning. Since everyone has slightly different styles, 1/2 of the available/usable/legit holds are not brushed clean and are quite dirty on a few routes. The moves are fun though, so they clean up nicely.

With a better approach and cleaner rock, this would be a worthwhile after-work crag, but right now, it suffers the lack of "full development."
By mrbiscoop
Sep 2, 2013
Couldn't find anything resembling a trail. After a while, we said fuck it and headed to Pasta Vinos in Boulder.