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Fun Classic Climb!
(p1) 80ft Starting in the gulley with practice rock is what i've heard is the original way. Although Most parties today use Kateys Route ( 5.8) Variation. If using Kateys route plan on bringing 7-8 QD's the last few feet is alittle run out but easy climbing. The climb follows solid crimp and pinch holds up a face. Once at the anchor chains.
(p2) 80ft The second pitch moves up the obvious ramp to a small belay ledge below the headwall. It can be akward at times with parties of 3. Another way is to scramble up the ramp right before the last scramble to the headwall and below from here.
(P3) 50 ft "Retable Pitch" clip the old piton its nice to also set a small/medium cam here in the horizontal crack. Traverse using the natural incuts. Look up for the " Fishbowl" jug hold. Pull up mantle ( Retable) and proceed up to the Chimmney. Below from the top. No Anchors above this route. Good stable Belaying though.
Rap off Westside using Anchors for 2 year plan ( 5.11) 2 60m ropes does the job pretty easy setup and rap.
Parking at the Sylvan General Store. Walk along the lake. Right before the damn is a small old road follow that up past the " boat House". This is the obvious "Ramp" line when reaching the boat house and looking at Inner Outlet.
7-8 QD's for Kateys Route ( 5.8) a few slings for rope drag. Small to medium cams and nuts.
|By Wilson On The Drums|
From: Woodbury, MN
Jan 17, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
great route, many variations to get to the start of the 2nd pitch. crazy conns was all i was thinking heading over to the retable move on lead. some really solid holds about though and wasn't to physical. kinda liked the chimney too..