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Black Widow Slab
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Far Right, The T 
Fire Down Below, The T 
Gyromancy S 
Kate Moss S 
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Pipe Dreams S 
Resonator S 
Right Side T 
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 
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Resonator 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl
Page Views: 1,243
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jul 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Top of Resonator. You can see how close it gets t...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a really nice route on great rock. Unfortunately, it's a bit contrived.

Climb through a series of roofs using blocky sidepulls and underclings until you encounter the crux- pulling onto the slab. Avoid using the corner to your right, and continue up the tricky slab to the anchors.

Location 

On the northeast corner of the buttress.

Protection 

This route is fully bolted, but a #2 Camalot can be used to protect the easy climbing between the last bolt and the chains.

Since the first clip is hard, you may want a stick clip.


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By Ken Younge
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This is a great route. The grade probably drops if you cop a rest (even a shoulder scum) from the right corner before you head into the upper-slab crux.
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 2, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Great summer route that stays in the shade most of the day. A four-tiered roof followed by a tricky face with a slight run to the chains. A kneepad (right knee) and taping (right hand) is helpful depending on your beta.
By Kaelen Willaims
Sep 26, 2008
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Really good route. Felt more like hard .12d than .13a. Has had draws on it for at least two months. What's the deal?
By Matt Battaglia
Aug 25, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I agree with the comment that not using the right wall at all bumps this grade to 13a, though it is highly contrived not to use it. According to popular folklore the route was previously rated 12d and was forced right into the corner because there was no bolt on the face to go straight up. Now a bolt is added and we have a great but a bit contrived route.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This is a nice climb, but if what Matt B says is true, that after you pull the first crux, the line originally finished in the corner at 12d. I think it's quite a bummer someone came and added bolts up the face, we have taken a 3 star 12d and turned it into a contrived but good 13a (Bo Can has plenty of these climbs already). I have a really hard time forcing myself onto the face when the easiest most obvious line climbs at 12d. Overall, a good climb and pretty steep for Boulder Canyon.