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Wall of Confusion
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Sportsman S 
Big Damage S 
Desert Pickle S 
Fear and Loathing, III S 
Makulu S 
Promises in the Dark S 
Resin Rose T 
Runaway, The S 
Sudden Impact S 
Super Guide S 

Resin Rose 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith - April, 1987
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Resin Rose ad from Climbing #101 (April 1987).

Description 

I almost want to give this 3 stars, but since the route is pretty dirty and most people aren't really into this sort of thing, I'm not sure I can in good conscience. If you do like wide crack/chimney problems, Resin Rose should be on your Red Rocks tick list.

Begin in the alcove a short scramble up and right from Fear and Loathing and climb the obvious crack. Fairly easy climbing through guano leads up into the bowels of this beast where a fixed wire and sling provide crux pro. From here, all but the smallest of 12 year old OW aficionados will have to climb down and outwards across the bottomless maw before once again worming upwards to a thank god jug/handjam and gear. The fall from the crux is spectacular, scary, but seemingly quite safe. Continue more easily up the steep crack to more bird crap and an annoying anchor shared with the sport climb on the right. Beware of sharp edges if you choose to lower (it might be better to rap).

Protection 

Ignore the recommendations of 5" and 8" pieces. A double set to #2 Camalot is perfect. Anything bigger will undoubtedly get in your way. Long pants and some handi wipes would not go unappreciated.


Photos of Resin Rose Slideshow Add Photo
Resin Rose ad from Climbing #104 (October 1987).
Resin Rose ad from Climbing #104 (October 1987).
Looking up at Resin Rose
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Resin Rose

Comments on Resin Rose Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Nov 17, 2011

And a pair of those shoes.


Raise your hand if you remember these!
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 18, 2011

Too young, man. Nice writeup, Josh. Almost makes me want to buy a jumbo bottle of hand sanitizer and get on it. Almost :)
By rockratrei
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2011

Had a pair.
By Matt Kuehl
From: the desert
Feb 26, 2013

This route is actually pretty sweet even with all the petrified bird shit. Not a classic, but a damn fun OW section with pretty engaging climbing throughout. I brought big gear, placed it, and would do the same again.