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Resident Bush 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,206
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Jan 13, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: Resident Bush and Traditions. Bolt count in photo...
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start in an alcove with a shallow corner on the left with a scratchy bush growing out of it. Clip the first bolt (just right of the bush), then figure out how to climb past or over the foliage without getting entangled and scratched. Please do not remove the shrub - it was there first, and it is possible (albeit inobvious) to climb past it without getting thrashed. Continue on up the arete and face above to a ledge on top. The anchors are on the wall above the ledge, and are easily accessible from the top.

Addendum: Beware, there is a block that shifts a half inch just below the 4th bolt.

Addendum: you can go up the crack right of the 1st bolt, and traverse at the 2nd bolt for an 8+.


Protection 

Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.



Photos of Resident Bush Slideshow Add Photo
Liar Liar and Resident Bush
BETA PHOTO: Liar Liar and Resident Bush
Jeff Gunter at the awkward move near the 2nd bolt.
Jeff Gunter at the awkward move near the 2nd bolt.
Comments on Resident Bush Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Thompson
Jan 23, 2002

Fun route! The climbing seems to ease up (5.9) after the bush. Fun moves and solid stone make this pretty enjoyable.

By Steve Kelly
Feb 25, 2002

While I was climbing up at Table on 2/22/02 a climber was injured on this climb after some blocks came loose as he was climbing. The blocks came off from the left of the arete near the second and third bolts. I believe that the climber was dropped while the belayer attempted to dodge the (large) falling debris. He was, luckily, wearing a helmet and did not suffer any life threatening injuries, a badly broken leg and various cuts were the only things evident at the scene. I don't think that the climb has been seriously altered, just a word to be careful and watch for the loose stuff.

By Scott Thompson
Mar 3, 2002

Hmmm...I meant to say, 'Fun moves on really crappy, loose stone.' Another block lies in wait just left of the fourth bolt; resist the temptation to pull hard on this jugga.

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Feb 1, 2010

Scott is right, that block (with 2 Xs on it) is just standing there, waiting to be trundled. I avoided it without difficulty. And, now with 6 bolts, you don't have to actually climb the crack to the Resident Bush.