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Breezy Point Boulders
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Rerighting the gospel 

Hueco: V0- Font: 4-

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V0- Font: 4- [details]
FA: Blake Workman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: blake workman on Sep 30, 2007

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Rerighting the gospel

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Description 

A sit down problem that starts on a left hand sloper and right hand crimp. Right to a slopey side pull, toe hook left foot and then to a left hand pinch, that is ok. Right up to a bad slopey edge, tricky foot work that includes a left heel hook. Left hand goes up to a virtually nothing sloper for stability and then bump to a really small and bad three finger crimp. Probably an eighth of an edge. Walk your feet through and step on a right foot edge and up with your right hand to a jumbly two finger crystal that feels barely there. Then toss to the obvious sloper. The sloper looks good but is pitiful and extremely hard to hang on to. Match right hand next to it and move your right foot up to a very small edge and then up to the jug. That is how I did it anyway. I chose the rating of V0- which it isn't but was not interested in putting a rating on it. Someone else can do that. I'll just say it was hard for me. None the less it is real good. I would like to see someone else on it.

Location 

This problem is located on the far south east area of the Breezy Point boulders. It actually sits down hill and away from most of the concentration of the primary boulders at Breezy Point. A five minute walk from the Bus Boulder.

Protection 

None


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By Greg Parker
Administrator
Oct 1, 2007

It seemed at least V1+ to me. Just kidding. I looked at this thing on my quick tour of Breezy Point last year. I did not try it, but I felt the holds and they are pathetic. Nice job, Blake. You've got a heavyweight contender.
By blake workman
Oct 1, 2007

Heavyweight... hmm, probably more like a middle weight but none the less we will see. We have people around here who can probably clean this thing up pretty quickly. You are right though... the holds are not that great. The right hand hold that was really bad broke from me trying to stand on it as a foot. It broke to a bigger but certainly not better hold. It is now slopey and hard to hang on to even though you can get another finger on it. It took a while to piece together but I think it's a proud send. Hopefully someone will try it soon. The video of me doing it is on my myspace page. Check it out... it has some funny dialogue in it. Turn it up real loud and make sure the profanity police aren't around.
Anyway... been quite some time, how are you?
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Oct 2, 2007

Hey Blake. I just watched the FA video. Nice job. You make it look easier than it is, I'm sure. I'd be psyched to try it this Christmas break. I'm trying to get back into shape (I've been saying that for a while now). This time I mean it! Are you going to be around over Christmas? If so, we should definitely hook up.
Should the name of this problem actually be spelled Rewriting the Gospel?
By blake workman
Oct 2, 2007

Glad you enjoyed the video. Be really great if you did do this thing over Christmas break. The colder temps definitely help out for some of the holds. Understand the getting into shape idea... something always gets in the way of that. I might be around over the holidays but not completely sure yet. I'd have to get back to you. Be great to climb with you again. As for the name, nope it's spelled right... no pun intended.