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Cracked Canyon
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Reptilicus (The Crock) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Long & Lynn Hill, 1980
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: Bingman on Jul 29, 2008

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Fight your way up the dihedral with very large hand to fist jams using every technique possible: offwidthing, jamming, chimneying, stemming, etc. This is the physically demanding section. Get a great rest on a ledge, finish out the dihedral, and then break right on a short ramp/arete, pull the easy roof, and trend back out left on an obvious flake and climb up easier ground to the anchors above. This pitch has it all!


This climb starts in the large, left-facing, left-trending dihedral just uphill from Javelin.


Bring a few #3s for the first dihedral, a #4 would've been handy, but I didn't have one. Higher up there are plenty of nut placements, #0.75s, #1s, and #2s.

There is gear all over this thing, bring as much as you need - it's a long pitch!

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