Reptile  5.12a

264 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Eddie Whittemore - 1992 Submitted By:  yevquest on Jan 19, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

I avoided this route for years due to spider webs, rusty bolts, and the chossy look. Someone has rebolted it (thanks!) and the spiders haven't been very busy this winter so I finally got on it. I thought it was a fun journey with some choss, some dirt, some scary holds, but overall pretty fun. If you like this route, try the Dark Star at T-Wall. It's bigger, harder, and better.

Start with a steep, bouldery move to two sandy, chossy holds. Grovel through this to the second bolt. Whew, the worst of it is over. Now climb interesting jugs to a stance at the base of the large roof. Follow jugs up and left [Snatch (13b) goes out the right line of bolts], using scary looking but apparently solid holds. There's one smaller hold here, a jug-let, but overall this section isn't too bad and is very fun. The end of the route climbs 10 feet up the headwall on flake jugs to annoying single-ring anchors.

I left the grade at 12a per the guidebook but in reality it's quite soft, probably around 11c or d. You can rest pretty much anywhere and the holds when it gets steep are very good. Worth doing if you like a little adventure.

Location 

From climbers access 2, follow the trail downstream for 50 yards. Above you'll notice a large overhanging buttress (the Snatch Wall). Start by stick clipping a new looking bolt and working up and right. Two other routes share the same start, Snatch and Glory.

Protection 

Bolts