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Two Pines Buttress
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Big Deal T,TR 
Brother Without a Brain TR 
Crosstown Traffic T 
Dyspepsia T,TR 
Full Stop T,TR 
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Hypoglycemia T,TR 
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 
L. S. D. T,TR 
Moderation T,TR 
Mouse Tracks T 
Mouse's Misery T,TR 
Mouse's Tail T,TR 
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 
Rack, The T,TR 
Reprieve TR 
Schizophrenia T,TR 
Solar Eclipse T,TR 
Thoroughfare T 
Touch & Go T,TR 
Vacillation T,TR 

Reprieve 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 783
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Reprieve (rt 79) follows the face between Full Sto...

Description 

Reprieve is located on the south corner of Two Pines Buttress, left of Full Stop. Start about 2 feet right of the corner up the face. Find crimp holds to ascend the wall to a small ledge at the top of a bulge about 20 feet up. Continue up the face avoiding the corner to your left and Full Stop (rt 78) to your right. A very nice climb.


Protection 

Top roped it.



Photos of Reprieve Slideshow Add Photo
Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962.  The original route veered right to Full Stop and then moved back left.  The Reprieve is a straightening-out of the original lead.
BETA PHOTO: Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, ...
Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962.  The original route veered right to Full Stop, then back left.  The Reprieve is a straightened-out version of the original lead.
BETA PHOTO: Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines...
Comments on Reprieve Add Comment
Show which comments
By Benjamin Sanders
May 28, 2003

I watched this route being lead over memorial day weekend. very small nuts for pro but pro nonetheless. Looks like a decent lead route if one is solid at the grade (at the lake)and doesn't mind a little run-out!

By asmith
Oct 22, 2007

It's a fun lead. Thin, thoughtful, but fun.
It was my first lead on my first climb at the lake.
Ahh the memories

By Tradoholic
Jun 3, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Doesn't protect well, bring your lead hat and a stopper or two and that's all you need.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 12, 2012

Which two stoppers should I bring Ninja?

By Tradoholic
Mar 13, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

The ones that say "Bad Mother Fucker" on them.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 13, 2012

Hey my wallet says that!

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 13, 2012

"The path of the righteous man is beset on all sides by the inequities of the selfish and the tyranny of evil men. Blessed is he who, in the name of charity and good will, shepherds the weak through the valley of darkness, for he is truly his brother's keeper and the finder of lost children. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who would attempt to poison and destroy My brothers. And you will know My name is the Lord when I lay My vengeance upon thee." Jules..

By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
May 25, 2013

I think the source for the route now called The Reprieve was something I did in 1962 we called Richard's Reprieve. The route started where The Reprieve starts but veered right to Full Stop for protection (and easier moves) before moving back left. The first ascent was done on the lead (in the days before nuts). I've posted two pictures that give some idea about where we went.