Fun, varied, grippy granite. This route is an overlooked classic, even for Old Rag. My memory of the crux included knock-kneed funky stems and tips locks with good gear pulling out of the chimney to my immense relief-my good piece was the grey TCU. Worthwhile and fun.
When descending into the Reflector Oven, bear right along the wall, passing underneath Strawberry Fields, until the wall makes a 90 degree turn. The corner and chimney at this sometimes-wet corner is what you're looking for.
Cams+nuts with TCUS
Opening moves on Report to Sickbay
Matt Murray in the thick of it.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 17, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.10- very safe and once a lot of climber climb it it will be a great route to the top. Also there is now anchors at the top.
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great route and great pro up to the anchors, and looks just as good (and a little easier?) all the way to the top. Climbed the first ~15 feet above the anchors, but the moss was so thick and wet in the crack that I thought there was a good chance my pro would blow on a fall - hard to tell whether you're cammed on rock or not.