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Bull Canyon
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Repo Man T 

Repo Man 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A3-

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 190', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A3- [details]
FA: Steve Bartlett, solo, Dec 20th, 2004
Season: Sunny, so winter is fine
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Apr 16, 2012

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Repo Man topo

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start under an obvious "A" shaped chimney on the south side. 1. Climb over loose blocks into the obvious thin crack, left of the chimney. At crack's end, reach left into another crack. Up this to a ledge with a two-bolt anchor (A2, 100'). 2. Traverse right past two bolts onto the southeast face. Up a nice crack until it ends. Move right into a second, shallower and more fragile crack system. Up this (becomes better and steeper) to the top (A3-, 100').

Location 

Route is the detached tower/chimney on left side of Bull Canyon, just where the road is closed, 150 yards before you run into the Gemini Bridges. Watch out for falling jeeps. Start under an obvious "A" shaped chimney on the south side.

Protection 

PITONS-6 Toucans (long), 4 Lost Arrows, 4 Bugaboos, 2 Baby Angles. Many nuts (often tapped into place), from RP #2 to 1" size. CAMS-1 each Blue Alien to Yellow Alien, 2 Red Aliens, 4 Orange Aliens (1.5"), 2 each Friend 2" to 2.5", 1 each #3 Friend to #4 Camalot.


Photos of Repo Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice 'n' steep! View down pitch 2.
Nice 'n' steep! View down pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit pic, first ascent, Dec 20, 2004
Summit pic, first ascent, Dec 20, 2004
Rock Climbing Photo: Repo Man. Route begins in shady slot, works up the...
Repo Man. Route begins in shady slot, works up the...

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