Repo Man (aka Power Fingers) 

I replaced the two anchor bolts at the top of Repo Man's first pitch. I was with Scott Cosgrove and we were rapelling to the anchor. When Scott clipped a sling into one of the old bolts and leaned back on it, the bolt broke; it sheered off with just his body weight!!

The four protection bolts on Repo Man are still the old ones placed by Jonny Woodward and Darrel Hensel in 1986 and need an upgrade.

When I toproped Repo Man years ago I found it to be solid 12a. It has some beautiful patina and excellent face climbing, but the pitch is really messed up with the chipped holds and the contrived runout at the top. Jonny passed up some obvious bolt stances- he was a very bold and talented climber back in the day (1986).

There is a lengthy and interesting discussion regarding the history of the route on the Astroturf page. Maybe these comments could be moved here? I figured it's about time this route got its own page in the MP database.

It's easy to set a toprope on the first pitch while rapping from the summit. See this Photo to locate the anchors. From there make a long rap (70m rope recommended, possibly required) and swing right to reach the P1 anchors of Repo Man. You can also climb the first pitch of Figures and then head up and left after the 5th bolt (see "Astroturf")

I've only TR'd the first pitch myself, so if anyone wants to add a more detailed description of P2, that would be great.

Pitch 2: Undercling right (5.10+) then lieback the right side of the huge flake (5.9) up to a bolt anchor. (1 to 3 inch pro for this pitch)

Pitch 3: Up, then left (10+) on steep face past 6 bolts to the top. There are three bolts for the anchor at the very top.

To descend, look south (toward the South Astro Dome)about 40 feet to the first of 2 rap anchors (two less than 100 foot raps to the ground) which badly need replacing BTW.

The cause of the rock scarring on the first pitch of Powerfinger seemed inconclusive to me when I last looked at it, thirty years ago. I never questioned that there was scarring, only the level of certainty that others espoused, as to its cause. I believe that scarring could just as likely be the result of the cleaning reported by Keith, as that of chipping or enhancing of holds, which the first ascentionists have steadfastly denied doing for over thirty years now.

While recognizing the bold and impressive ascent by Jonny Woodward and Darrell Hensel, in my opinion, the vision and effort that Ed and Keith displayed in the first ascent of Powerfinger is worthy and deserving of full and unqualified credit. I believe their three pitch route should be restored, which would include replacing the fifth bolt on the first pitch so that the route could be climbed and enjoyed by others, safely. Those wishing to measure themselves against the ascent of Woodward and Hensel could do so by opting to not clip the fifth bolt on the first pitch.

An article on climbing ethics:
www.splitterchoss.com/2010/03/17/do-first-ascentionists-own->>>

Bob, too bad you didn't replace the bolts on the first pitch, the climbing looks really good - I talked some guys into climbing this for photos - when we got there and saw the old bolts, they were like oh hell no!