Repentence  WI5

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Type:  Ice, 3 pitches, 200 feet, Grade III Consensus:  WI5 [details] FA:  John Bragg, Rick Wilcox, 1973 Season:  December through March Submitted By:  Kris Gorny on Oct 13, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.

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Description 

An impresive ribbon of ice wedged in the middle of a smooth rock face. The route is done in three pitches. Even though the crux is at the beginning of the second pitch, it is not over until you are on the very top.
P1: WI4 ice leading to a ledge with bolts (see picture)
P2: The meat of the climb. Crux is right off the ledge. Climb the overhang (can be thin with frontpointing on small rock crystals in "out" conditions) and continue on a spectacular ice shute to belay from ice screws in the alcove
P3: Climb up the ice (WI4) to under a large chockstone and climb around it either to the left or to the right. I ended up letting the tools hang from the leashes and hand-jammed the crack to the left (M5?)

Protection 

ice screws, some medium cams

Photos of Repentence Slideshow

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Pat McCarthy coming up the first pitch.	Just above the crux. Pitch 2.	The Route...
Sebastien Morin on the crux	Sebastien Morin on the last pitch