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1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.
An impresive ribbon of ice wedged in the middle of a smooth rock face. The route is done in three pitches. Even though the crux is at the beginning of the second pitch, it is not over until you are on the very top.
P1: WI4 ice leading to a ledge with bolts (see picture)
P2: The meat of the climb. Crux is right off the ledge. Climb the overhang (can be thin with frontpointing on small rock crystals in "out" conditions) and continue on a spectacular ice shute to belay from ice screws in the alcove
P3: Climb up the ice (WI4) to under a large chockstone and climb around it either to the left or to the right. I ended up letting the tools hang from the leashes and hand-jammed the crack to the left (M5?)
ice screws, some medium cams
Pat McCarthy coming up the first pitch.
Just above the crux. Pitch 2.
Sebastien Morin on the crux
Sebastien Morin on the last pitch
|By Patrick McCarthy|
From: Columbus Ohio
Dec 11, 2006
The column at the beginning of the second pitch was non-existent when we did this route making for a couple of tough mixed (M5?) moves to gain good ice above. Kris protected this by clipping an old piton and backing it up with a marginal cam.
Jan 9, 2012
Some more basic beta: There are two fixed anchors with slings at the top of the second pitch, both on the left. The first is almost immediately after the last bit of the chimney. The next one is about 25 feet higher and has a nice ledge to stand on. Both keep you mostly out of ice fall danger.
We brought a single set of cams from 0 metolious to #3.5 camalot, plus some nuts. Blue cam works well under roof/chockstone at the top.
Wicked sweet climb!