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Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
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Repentance 

WI5 M4-5

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 350', Grade III
Consensus: WI5 M4-5 [details]
FA: John Bragg, Rick Wilcox, 1973
Season: December through March
Page Views: 8,650
Submitted By: Gabe13 on Oct 13, 2006
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1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.

Description 

An impresive ribbon of ice wedged in the middle of a smooth rock face. The route is done in three pitches. Even though the crux is at the beginning of the second pitch, it is not over until you are on the very top.
P1: WI4 ice leading to a ledge with bolts (see picture)
P2: The meat of the climb. Crux is right off the ledge. Climb the overhang (can be thin with frontpointing on small rock crystals in "out" conditions) and continue on a spectacular ice shute to belay from ice screws in the alcove
P3: Climb up the ice (WI4) to under a large chockstone and climb around it either to the left or to the right. I ended up letting the tools hang from the leashes and hand-jammed the crack to the left (M5?)


Protection 

ice screws, some medium cams



Photos of Repentance Slideshow Add Photo
Sebastien Morin on the crux
Sebastien Morin on the crux
Sebastien Morin on the last pitch
Sebastien Morin on the last pitch
Pat McCarthy coming up the first pitch.
Pat McCarthy coming up the first pitch.
The Route...
The Route...
Repentence on January 29th, 2014.
Repentence on January 29th, 2014.
Just above the crux. Pitch 2.
Just above the crux. Pitch 2.
Comments on Repentance Add Comment
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By Patrick McCarthy
From: Columbus Ohio
Dec 11, 2006
rating: WI5

The column at the beginning of the second pitch was non-existent when we did this route making for a couple of tough mixed (M5?) moves to gain good ice above. Kris protected this by clipping an old piton and backing it up with a marginal cam.

By JohnnyG
Jan 9, 2012

Some more basic beta: There are two fixed anchors with slings at the top of the second pitch, both on the left. The first is almost immediately after the last bit of the chimney. The next one is about 25 feet higher and has a nice ledge to stand on. Both keep you mostly out of ice fall danger.

We brought a single set of cams from 0 metolious to #3.5 camalot, plus some nuts. Blue cam works well under roof/chockstone at the top.

Wicked sweet climb!

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 5, 2014

So that others don't make the same mistake as us, the preferred second pitch belay is higher then you might suspect. The first fixed anchor looks like tat with a bunch of small ledges. Go another 20 feet or so and there will be a roughly 2'x4' ledge with another fixed anchor (4 pins tied off with thick orange static cord as of 1/14). Second ledge would be much more comfortable and more protected from falling ice.

By Derek Tremblay
From: NH
Feb 12, 2014

Rock Gear?

By Gabe13
Feb 28, 2014

The route beta could use an upgrade. It is possible to link the climb into two pitches, but the vast majority of parties do three. There are fixed belays on the left side of the chimney/ groove, out of the line of fire- not sure why one would want to belay off screws. Light rock rack is reasonable, but the #3 Camalot is pretty key to protect the chockstone, especially if you go left. The right-hand crack can be a reasonable way to finish if there are ice boogers in there.