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 ADVANCED
Farmington Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
137 lbs of Fury T 
Basket Case TR 
Batman Surprise TR 
Butt Crack T 
Cool Air T,TR 
Era of Tara, The T 
Every woman has her charm. TR 
Humble Beginnings T 
Klingon Arete TR 
Nano Pitch TR 
Repent Now or Die TR 
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 
Suck it Up Princess S 
Unsorted Routes:

Repent Now or Die 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: TBD
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: spencerparkin on Jun 12, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Here's a shot of the bottom of the climb. Ignore ...

Description 

This climb fallows the flakes curving from the left and up to the middle. These are fun underclings! Near the top is an overhang with a diving board feature in the way. Don't short change yourself on this climb! Pull the roof! It's tempting to go around it, but I'm going to designate that as off route!

I marked the FA as TBD, because I don't think anyone has climbed this before, but having rope-solod it, claiming an FA doesn't seem right. I didn't weight the system so I believe I free-climbed the route, but it's still not an FA. Maybe if I can come back with a belayer I can get the FA.

Location 

The "Farmington Crag" actually refers to several island crags centered about the main crag. This climb exists on the long-wall crag East of the main crag. The pictures will clarify.

Protection 

This will probably go as a mixed route. We may have to put some bolts in there, but there are definitely some places where you could get pro in.


Photos of Repent Now or Die Slideshow Add Photo
Ignore where the rope is running.  That's not the climb.  The climb fallows the great flakes curving from the left and up to the center below the roof in shadow.  Notice the diving board just below the roof, which is instramental in pulling the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Ignore where the rope is running. That's not the ...
This is the first ever trad-anchor that I built myself and put my life on.  It took way too long to make it and it is total over-kill.  I did not want to die today!  I still have so many things to repent of.
BETA PHOTO: This is the first ever trad-anchor that I built my...
Here's a close-up of my back-up anchor.  Can you say, "paranoia"?!
BETA PHOTO: Here's a close-up of my back-up anchor. Can you s...
This is a picture of the long-wall crag East of the main crag.  (The sun is about to set in the West.)
BETA PHOTO: This is a picture of the long-wall crag East of th...

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