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 ADVANCED
Penitentiary Wall
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Cell Life 
Climb and Punishment 
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Repeat Offender 
S&M 
Speed is of the Essence 
Sticky Zipper 
Tax Evasion 
Unknown Right Arete 

Repeat Offender 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Allen Sanderson & John Steiger July 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Jul 15, 2012
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Description 

Look for a 2'x2' blob of rock approximately 20 feet up and perhaps 10 feet to the left of S&M. Boulder up to the blob, step right around it continue up trending slightly left to a broken head wall. The headwall has lots of nice holds for both the feet and hands. Finish at a flat ledge. Belay here with natural gear or continue up and to the left to the anchors for Minimum Security.


Location 

Look for a 2'x2' blob of rock approximately 20 feet up perhaps 10 feet to the left of S&M.


Protection 

Small nuts, TCUs, and small cams. When you see opportunities for gear, place something. A 1" cam works great for protecting mid way up the head wall. A PG rating was given as a 5.8 leader might find the protection opportunities a little difficult.



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