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Renegades of Funk 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,670
Submitted By: kjdetlor on Mar 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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A great place to avoid the heat.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

cool pody, flared flake that starts in a chimney and continues up and out. fun chimney/stemming moves for the first half of the route followed by some awkward cruxy moves on the flake.

Location 

directly behind the off width "desire", in the chimney behind the pillar that slice and dice is on, just past the full chimney route "Closed Course".

Protection 

finger to tight hands gear, could place a #4 Camelot in one of the pods


Photos of Renegades of Funk Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: a hidden gem at the end of the tunnel
a hidden gem at the end of the tunnel
Rock Climbing Photo: on lead and loving every single move
on lead and loving every single move

Comments on Renegades of Funk Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Nov 19, 2010

FYI from the Closed Course entry:

Further up this corridor one encounters a wavy, podded R-facing flake which we climbed for 100' or so. This has recently sprouted a lower set of anchors (right where it gets wide, funny) and a plaque: "Renegades of Funk, 5.10". Owing to the wing-like look of the feature, we had considered "Bernoulli Effect" as a name, but it was getting late to be sitting around carving on rocks.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

fun and worth doing. good end-of-day-low-motivation sort of route. probably 5.9 or so to the first anchor.
By samwagner
Apr 5, 2016

I zippered off this route pulling 3 pieces after placing 6. I broke the rock at each pull and fell about 35-40 feet and grounded. I landed perfectly (Judo style and limp) on my pack as if I were posting up for a nap. I was wearing my helmet. I only incurred a few bruises, some rock rash, and bit tongue. It was rather miraculous, and I am still in awe that I am standing at my desk typing this. I feel spiritually reborn, and I am fine. Many thanks to the climbing community that helped and responded, and especially to Sara, the paramedic, and my belayer Warren who is one special cat. I wanted to inform the community here of the accident due to the one thing that may have mitigated the direction of pull - slings. I did not runner my pieces because I could see a "perfect" rope line next the crack with all biners and rope a few inches away from the flake. I did not consider the amplified force away from the flake due to not knowing how the fall would occur if I did fall (and I was not planning on falling, which was likely the thing that saved me. I was not tense; I was relaxed and present. I believe this is what allowed me to land without tension and dissipate my energy into the ground. How's that for a life lesson on presence?). I believe a runner may have put me in a more downward pull on the gear as opposed to a sideways pull towards the face of the flake. Moral of the story is to runner your gear at times it may not seem necessary (especially in a flake), respect and consider the physics of what we do more than before, be ever grateful, and to hug and love your friends and family. Thanks again to everyone that helped ensure my health that day and stay safe climbing out there. I hope to come back and finish this route someday (WITH RUNNERS!). It is a purty route.
By samwagner
Apr 5, 2016

I realized that I should clarify that I "un-zippered" from the top down (belayer was standing so that the first piece was running cleanly). Maybe two pieces and an equalized sling would have been the way to go at the crux.

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