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Steele
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Renegade Trad 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Jeff Gruenberg?
Season: Cold, sunny days are best, morning sun
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: nevermind on Jan 9, 2013

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Description 

This climb is like Meathooks on steroids. The technical crux (V8) comes below the 2nd bolt and is considered reachy. However, I am 5'7" and figured out a sequence to do it. A the 2nd bolt you are met with a big rest with small feet in a horizontal. Next comes crux #2 (V6) which involves a very long pull off of two bad crimps to a two-finger two-pad edge on the left side of a loose flake. From here you reach to a sharp jug with no feet and get a couple of shakes before crux #3 (V5). Crux #3 involves more long pull off off bad slimpers to a slot and then to a thank god jug before the easier ground to the anchor (same as Meathooks). This route is only 50 feet tall but feels like it's much taller due the technical and powerful sequences.

Location 

10 feet right of Meathooks

Protection 

6 or 7 fixed draw. Same anchors as Meathooks


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By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Nov 6, 2013

Mark Cole, Jeff Gruenburg......?