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Contrary to its name, this is a sport route. This climb is like Meathooks on steroids, essentially 3 V7's separated by worsening rests. The technical crux (V7) comes below the 2nd bolt and is considered reachy. However, I am 5'7" and figured out a sequence to do it. A the 2nd bolt you are met with a big rest with small feet in a horizontal. Next comes crux #2 (V7) which involves a very long pull off of two bad slots to a two-finger two-pad edge on the left side of a loose flake. From here you reach to a sharp jug with only foot smears and get a few shakes before crux #3 (V7). Crux #3 involves more long pull off off bad slimpers to a small jug slot and then to a thank god jug before the easier ground to the Meathooks anchor. This route is only 50 feet tall but feels like it's much taller due the technical and powerful sequences.
10 feet right of Meathooks
5 bolts, 4th draw is a fixed chain. Shares an anchors with Meathooks.
From: birmingham, al
Nov 6, 2013
Mark Cole, Jeff Gruenburg......?