Renaissance Wall Rock Climbing
Looking down towards the valley from the Renaissan...
The incredible Renaissance Wall is hidden deep within the formation of the Book. At the far left side of the book, just before the Bookmark Pinnacle
and just after the Isis Buttress
, follow the deepest of the 'pages' in the book to find an incredible slot canyon with tall granite walls featuring excellent routes on either side- welcome to the Renaissance Wall. Popularized by the cutting edge 3 pitch route of the same name (Renaissance Wall 5.12c
) established by Mike Caldwell and Randy Ferris in 1992, this area has become host to a number of Lumpy Ridge testpiece routes, both sport and trad. Here you will find Tommy Caldwell's 'Country Boy' 13d, which remains Lumpy's hardest route even 12 years after its first ascent. This seldom done route saw its first all gear placed on lead ascent just last year (2008).
The area offers a welcome relief from the blazing hot summer sun and relentlessly low angles that characterize most Lumpy Ridge climbing. However, don't toss out your Miura's quite yet; routes here are extremely technical and require a similar level of precision footwork and crimping as one would expect elsewhere at Lumpy, just on a much steeper angle. Rock quality here generally increases as you climb higher up the wall, but chossy sections do exist everywhere, so be mindful of potential rock fall.
Remember to practice Leave No Trace when at the Renaissance Wall and please hike all the way back down to below the book if you find yourself in need of a #2 potty break.
Hike as you would to the Book, then follow the cliff line to the climbers left around the Pages Wall
and the Isis Buttress
. The Renaissance Wall is located far back in a cleft on your right, just before you encounter the Bookmark Pinnacle
Climbing Season For the The Book area.
Weather station 1.9 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Renaissance Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Renaissance Wall:
Decisions 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Dakota 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Renaissance Wall
Decisions 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a CO
: Lumpy Ridge
: ... : Renaissance Wall
Decisions starts off the Pharaoh's Child ledge directly beneath the tree with rap slings. Look for a nice hand crack, that ends quickly, and head straight up towards the tree moving back and forth between angling crack systems. Gear is abundant with great small and medium sized stoppers' and the climbing is sustained and pumpy. The Gillett guide has this listed as 5.12a, but I think the rating is more consistent with nearby climbs such as Dead Boy Direct and Corner Pump Station....[more] Browse More Classics in CO