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 ADVANCED
Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattlesnake Canyon Crag)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Death, The S 
Bring Out Your Dead T 
Camelbak Crack T 
Cupcakes & Champagne S 
King Snake Crack T 
Pestilence Crack T 
Renaissance Man S 
Sword In The Stone S 
Tender Flakes of Mercy T 
the Labrador Ate the Cupcakes S 
Trebuchet S 
Wicked Duke Takes a Wife, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Renaissance Man 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Andy Patterson, March 2, 2013
Page Views: 491
Submitted By: andy patterson on Dec 30, 2011

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Bernd Zeugswetter attempts the lower section of Re...

Description 

The proudest and hardest line at the crag. Truly difficult. It was also the first line we even tried at Renaissance Crag. For some reason, we thought the moves would go quickly on TR. Wrong. The bottom twelve feet of this rig eluded me (and others) for the better part of three years till finally, on a hot March day, I made it happen.

Jens Amundsen, a long-time Rattlesnake compatriot, was belaying. I had planned to TR the route clean before putting in a lead bolt to protect the bottom crux, but my gut had other plans. I think I needed the motivation of leading to try harder, so Jens watched patiently while I added a fat lead bolt, lowered down, and psyched up. On my second ground-up go, I climbed through the crux and reached the flared crack—a new highpoint for me at the time—and then promptly fell off in surprise. Third go wasn't much better. Then, with my tips super raw and the afternoon sun about to bake the tiny crimps, I gave it my best harumph.

Done!


Location 

Starts about five feet right of Trebuchet, directly below the big fat lead bolt. Pull through some burly underclings, figure out a sequence through the face of crimps, then gain the flared crack. Finish up and right per Trebuchet.

Protection 

Three bolts. First bolt is pretty high, so can be stick-clipped.


Photos of Renaissance Man Slideshow Add Photo
Moving through the flared crack on Renaissance Man. Note: at this point, the line joins up with Trebuchet.
Moving through the flared crack on Renaissance Man...
The last move of Renaissance Man (and Trebuchet): a powerful dyno/deadpoint to a sloping edge.
The last move of Renaissance Man (and Trebuchet): ...

Comments on Renaissance Man Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 3, 2013

Anyone who knows me understands how long-term a project this was for me. For some reason, Renaissance Man weaseled its way under my skin, and the crux problem languished in my subconscious, seemingly never to leave or resolve itself. How hard is it really? Well, I'm not sure, but considering how many people have tried it, how long it stymied me, and the angle of the cliff, I think the route can claim a pretty stout grade. 5.13b/c is only a suggestion, folks.

Whatever the rating, I'm super proud of this send. Certainly the hardest moves I've ever done on a rope.
By Tim King
Mar 4, 2013

Way to go, nice job Andy!!

I haven't even gotten on this thing yet and I already know it's hard. Now that's it's done, my interest is certainly piqued... Maybe I'll wait for a cool day to give it a try? ;)
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 2, 2013

By the way, the route definitely goes from the sit-start, which begins downhill and right of the original stand-start. Bernd and I scoped it out. At the moment, the send dangles just out of reach, beyond the provenance of my still-too-weak crimping abilities. In essence: imagine a 6 or 7-move V6/7 in to a 15-move V9/10.

Total moves of climbing-bliss: 21-22, depending on sequence.

Hooray for silly motivations.