Renaissance Direct 5.7 R
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Marcy on Apr 7, 2007 |
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First two coffin nail bolts can be viewed ...
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Access: MORE INFO >>>
For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Pitch 1 (100'): 2 bolt face to a right facing dihedral. Follow dihedral up to a small roof. Pull the roof and continue up crack and belay from a nice ledge with a tree (2 bolts w/chains). Pitch 2 (~150'): Face climb to top. 4 bolts. Run-out between 1st and 2nd bolt and from 4th to top, but relatively easy climbing.
There are now two glue in bolts w/rappel rings at the top of the route. Double rope rappel (60m rope) back to the ledge. A second rap will put you back at the base of the route.
Location Starts behind some boulders left of Hanging Gardens, below the obvious right facing dihedral and roof (can be seen from approach trail).
Protection First pitch - protects well above the face in the dihedral, roof, and crack above the roof (small to medium nuts or cams). Second pitch - one could protect the run-out above the 4th bolt with #4 cam, but the climbing eases significantly here.
BETA PHOTO: The dihedral and roof on pitch 1.
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BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the great dihedral.
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Skip after pulling the roof on P1.
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| Comments on Renaissance Direct |
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By Ken Isaacson
Mar 30, 2010
| This route had to have gone up a long time ago. I do not think it would get a 5.7 today. The face on the first pitch is pretty featureless. There isn't much for hands or feet. Like many routes at Pinnacle, you have to rely on sticky rubber and use hands to claw up on the granite crystals. The crystals at best make some very small edges that can be clawed to get you up. Gym climbers and sport climbers who are doing 1990's routes, beware. This is 70's vintage stuff.
I led pitch 1 yesterday, and when I got to the ledge I was spent. Bolt 1 on pitch 2 is run out and you cannot see bolt 2 from the ledge. And the new trail is about an hour longer hike than the old approach. |
By Adam-phx-trad
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 30, 2011
| This was my first lead in the McDowells and it was a great climb. I am pretty fresh to the climbing scene but i felt like for a 5.7 this climb really gave you a good bang for the buck. The face on the first pitch is pretty minimal in features but the grade of the rock lends itself to great smearing "trust those feet" and it'll go smoothly. |
By Trad Nanny
Sep 21, 2012
| Bolts are kinda old on the 2nd pitch but it's the most secure 5.7 slab climbing you will ever do. Two raps with a 70m gets to the ground. A #4 BD C4 will calm the nerves for the last 15ft of the runout but it definitely gets way easier there. |
By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 10, 2012
| One of the best climbs in Phoenix! |
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