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Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattlesnake Canyon Crag)

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Black Death, The S 
Bring Out Your Dead T 
Camelbak Crack T 
Cupcakes & Champagne S 
Pestilence Crack T 
Renaissance Man S 
Sword In The Stone S 
the Labrador Ate the Cupcakes S 
Trebuchet S 
Wicked Duke Takes a Wife, The T 
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Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattlesnake Canyon Crag) 


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Page Views: 6,438
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: andy patterson on Dec 28, 2011
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Rough topo for main face.

Description 

A secluded nook of riparian beauty, varied climbing, and esoteric character. Has some of the longer lines in town (not lying), and some of the hardest as well. The style of climbing ranges from 5.7 slab-fests, to 5.13 crimp test-pieces, with a growing selection of 5.9 and 5.10 moderates. The crag still needs a lot of work, and I'm currently preparing some quality topos for the area, so consider this MP post a primer.

Check back soon!

NOTE: I'm not the first person to try developing this area. I've found old anchors, rusty bolts, and sundry evidence of past climbing shenanigans. I'm just another enthusiast picking up where someone else left off. If I named and graded a route that you know someone else did first, I apologize.


Getting There 

Park at Rattlesnake Canyon Trailhead, hike up the trail about 25-30 minutes. After the second big stream crossing, walk about fifty feet and look up the hill to your right. The steep overhang with a couple of fixed draws? That's it.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattlesnake Canyon Crag):
the Labrador Ate the Cupcakes   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 70'   
Sword In The Stone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   
Bring Out Your Dead   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 40'   
Trebuchet   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 35'   
Browse More Classics in Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattlesnake Canyon Crag)

Featured Route For Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattlesnake Canyon Crag)
Disney, before the fall.

Sword In The Stone 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Central Coast : ... : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl...
I love this route. It provides stacks of beautiful hand and foot movements, good rock, and elegant positioning. The crux comes low, and the last 15 meters pack consistent and engaging 5.9 climbing. Enjoy!Historical issues:It should be noted that this part of the Renaissance Crag shows signs of past climbing attention. I found an extremely sketchy 1/4" thick bolt that was drilled only 1/4" in to the sandstone patina. It took about 2 or 3 turns with my fingers to remove it. I have no idea when or ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattlesnake Canyon Crag) Slideshow Add Photo
Just downhill and across the stream from Renaissance Crag is giant cliff band that is home to the historic route "Fun in the Sun" by Forkash and Anderson.  <br /> <br />To get to the Fun in the Sun Wall, follow a climber's trail up the obvious gully on the left, which is reached 50 yards before the stream crossing where Renassaince Crag is located. The first two routes that are reached along the trail are Cupcakes & Champage (5.9+) and Labrador Cupcakes (5.6).
BETA PHOTO: Just downhill and across the stream from Renaissan...
Rough trail map.
Rough trail map.
Nicole descends the gully below the Fun in the Sun wall.
Nicole descends the gully below the Fun in the Sun...
Comments on Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattlesnake Canyon Crag) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Neil Roessler
Dec 29, 2011

Beautiful Andy. Great to see this area on the map! Keep up the good work out there, I look forward to jumping on some of these problems soon.

By Tucker Eurman
Jul 14, 2013

Great little spot, definitely for stronger climbers. The climbing and belay areas are all shaded all day. There is some poison oak around, so be careful. All of the bolts look basically new, and there are some trad nuts and quickdraws left (assuming for people's projects?). The hike was a little longer than 30min, and is uphill most of the way. We thought we had missed a turnoff, but kept hiking until we did eventually come across a second creek crossing. As long as you keep heading uphill, you'll hit it, and if not, you can end up at Gibraltar.

Really great spot with some solid, really hard, well protected, overhangs.

By Tucker Eurman
Jul 16, 2013

youtu.be/j8QLsNiNJVM

By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Oct 24, 2013

I do not live in SB...Moorpark. I only roll in and enjoy the local rocks when its to hot or to cold at other places... So where is this "Rattlesnake Canyon".... if its below Gibralter... I think I know how to locate it.

One of the benefits of the fire?

Looks like a fun place, thanks.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 24, 2013

Here's how you find the trailhead:

santabarbarahikes.com/hikes/frontcountry/directions/index.sh>>>

By Chris Morissette
From: Santa Barbara
Feb 12, 2014

Hey Andy,
I hiked up Rattlesnake Canyon yesterday and saw some development on the Fun in the Sun Wall. Are you the one developing that? If so, I would like to A. help and B. donate some hangers and bolts. It looks like a pretty cool spot with room for some new slab route up and left.