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The Headstone
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Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My 
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Remote Control 
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Remote Control 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Sills and Tom Hanson, 1995
Page Views: 3,356
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 29, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Sittin' on the first belay anchors.
Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Remote Control was one of the first lines to go in on The Headstone, and its two pitches climb the longest continuous stretch of this rock. The first pitch provides access to the Private Idaho crag if desired; you can walk off to the right. The climbing begins in the middle of the main grey slab just before the system of tiered overhangs and The Vortex. For a slab, this is pretty well protected with a dozen bolts in 140 ft. The second pitch follows the right arete of the main upper wall, forming the skyline of the Headstone. Protection is a bit more scarce, but the climbing never gets harder than 5.10. Good edges, and small flakes and chips form the holds on the second pitch. Easily gets two stars for length and continuity, and the exposure on the second pitch.


Protection 

QDs only. Two pitches long with double bolt anchors at the top of each pitch. 1st pitch is 140 feet long. 2nd pitch is 100 feet long. It is possible to scramble over to The Rampart Rage in mid-line to reach the very top of The Headstone. Double ropes are mandatory for the rappels.



Photos of Remote Control Slideshow Add Photo
Tom Hansen.... is he Australian Rappelling?
Tom Hansen.... is he Australian Rappelling?
Scott Stills, going down too it looks like.
Scott Stills, going down too it looks like.
Blaine following up the second pitch.
Blaine following up the second pitch.
Comments on Remote Control Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zachary Thomas
Sep 1, 2001

Great to take some one who wants to start leading slab. Great slab moves up high with close bolts to help the head.

By Joshua Lewis
May 6, 2002

Wow. Excellent line up an awesome rock...great views of Pike's, no crowds--or any other climbers at all. Very well worth the drive/hike in. May 4th and it actually snowed while on the 2nd pitch. FYI, the 2nd pitch only needs one 60m rope to get back to the ledge--then 2 to get down from there. Also, IMO the first pitch is significantly harder than the 2nd, but very well protected. I guess it depends if you're better at friction slab or steep, edgy face.

Damn; what a good route. Serious appreciation to those who put it up as well as those who documented it here. I definately would never have done it if it weren't for this d-base.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 1, 2006

The anchor on the midway ledge was fixed on 8/30/06. Previously, it had standard flat hangers with one quick link. That set up will DESTROY your rope. There are 2 quick links on each hanger, LEAVE THEM THERE.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Thanks to Tzilla for fixing up that rap anchor. This is a not-to-be missed climb. A great warm up for hardmen, rapping the last anchors will deposit you directly at the "fun" stuff. This climb has an eye-opening start (10a), followed by some terrific 5.9 slab climbing, a roof (10a), and an awkward dihedral that you could off-width for 20 feet, so you desire. (a bit of everything?) P2 has stellar position, with a cryptic crux including an exposed leftward step into space. I think P2 is a bit harder than P1, bringing the climb up to 10b if you do both pitches.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 30, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Upper pitch is pretty cool. Good positioning.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Jul 30, 2011

Great route. Bolts are a bit sparse on the slab, but the 10a rating is appropriate. You could actually link up both pitches with a 70m rope, but the ledge at the top of the first pitch is the most comfortable spot from which to belay. (The end of the first pitch is at the second set of anchors; the first set is for rappelling.) The upper pitch has a couple of somewhat runout spots, and a couple of bolts that are properly positioned for a 6'7" climber. From the top of the first pitch you can rappel down into Private Idaho.

By LuisC
Jul 8, 2013

Awesome route! Thanks!

FYI, we rappeled with a 60m rope without any problems. First from the top anchors in P2 to the intermediate anchors on the slab before the roof (not the end of P1), and then from there to the ground.

Thought the second pitch was a 10b.

By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Great route! Strangely I think P2 is more difficult than P1 and would happily give P2 5.10b, simply because of the first few bolts. Glad I led P1 and let my partner do P2.

Spectacular views - another good reason to do it!

Not sure how people got down on a 60m, we came down off the intermediate anchor and only had ~10' of extra rope. I'd bring a 70 if I were you.