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Espero Primavera
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berberechin fibrao 
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Se Miapaga La Baldufa 
Tan San Fot 

Remena Nena 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
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Enjoying the classic steep slab of "Remena Nena".

Description 

One of the classic technical slab climbs of Siurana, Remena Nena is a cerebral outing on excellent multi-colored stone. The darker rock here bakes in the sun, so come on a cloudy day or bring loads of chalk. The line weaves radically, so keep an open mind when route-finding. The crux involves a long reach which may make this feel more difficult for shorties.

Show the Euro fun boys what´s what by cruising the initial left-facing corner with bomber fingerlocks. Mount the slab, then head pretty far right, then back left, with a difficult shuffling sequence to cross the bolt line. Continue further left, to reach a wide 2¨edge and a good shake before the crux. Mantle up onto the edge, then move up & right (reachy) to gain the bulbous left-facing corner/roof. Pump up the crack, then move back left, across the face, to another flake out left. Cruise up this to the anchor.


Location 

Near the middle of the Espero cliff, climbing the pretty black & orange face immediately left of the "Tan San Fot" buttress.


Protection 

Bolts to 2BA.



Photos of Remena Nena Slideshow Add Photo
Long reaches below the business.
Long reaches below the business.
Remena Nena begins up an awkward dihedral.
Remena Nena begins up an awkward dihedral.
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By rickziegler
Mar 20, 2014

Great route. Fairly sustained with a couple good rests. Solid 11d or maybe 12a.