|274 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 930 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross Andy Ross (var leads) 11/11/11|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Nov 12, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: A) Remembrance Day. 5.9
Located right of Two Fingers Canyon.About 15 mins walk from parking area. A typical Reef slab route that takes one to the summit of the slabs with great views.
Back from the summit is a trapped garden area. Some of the climbing is of mixed quality but overall a good adventure climb. The crux section is well protected. Starts in the V slot between the waves with a black patch straight across from the parking area near the entrance of Two Fingers.
P1) Nice climbing on good rock. Climb past a bolt at 25' then past another to easier climbing to double anchors.170' 5.7.
Scramble 100' to the base of the obvious left facing corner.
P2) Climb the face just left of the corner (couple of small cams) to a bolt then step right into the corner which leads to double anchors.70'5.7+. Scramble 150' left to bushes below two small corners.
P3)Climb up the right side shallow corner past bolts then move right onto the face past more bolts to double anchors. Total 6 bolts.160' 5.9
P4).Move up left from the anchor to short steep slab (bolt) to big alcove. Climb easy rock to the right then follow the dark seams to the large hole and double anchors.200 5.7.
P5) From the belay follow the thin seams past one bolt to the summit.70' 5.6.Register in small cairn next to the double anchors.
Rap the route.
Two Fingers Canyon.Best to drive in via the Hanksville road.From the I.70 Hanksville exit (Rt 24) drive 7 miles just past mile marker 153 (on the left side of the road). The good straight dirt road is followed turning to the right for 2.4 miles to a less marked turn off to the left.(Three Fingers Canyon road is 1.5 miles further on)The first 1/4 mile of the road (hard surface) is difficult to see.. Keep near bushes to start then the only steepish section of the road can be seen up to the left .Its 1.8 easy miles from the turn off to the canyon.No four wheel required.
A few cams fron 1/4" to 2" .Slings. Two 60m ropes
Paul starting P1
Top of P1
Andy on P2
Andy on P3
Andy at the crux section P3
Higher on P4
Paul starting P4
At the belay P4
Paul on P5 to the summit
View of the back of the Reef into Two Fingers Cany...
Looking across the hidden summit garden towards t...
Rapping the route .Note trucks at the end of the T...