Relampago 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Bob Robertson, 2000 |
| Submitted By: | Barrett Cooper on Jan 19, 2003 |
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Seconding in Oct '03.
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Description This is a gem of a route on Cactus.
Start just right of Funkdamental and Poquito Mas. Climb easy rock to a ledge below the knifeblade arete. Climb up the left side of the arete until you are forced to cross over to the right side. It is a hairy move over the arete because a bad fall could do a number on you chances of having children as you have to do the splits to get around the sharp arete, but the move is not really hard. Once on the right side of the arete, face climb (crux) up to the anchors. If you stem backwards off of the right arete face, knock the grade down a bit as this bypasses the hardest climbing on the route.
Protection 8 bolts to anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
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BETA PHOTO
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By Edward Jenner
Sep 4, 2003
rating: 5.10b
| It was OK. I'd recommend the route if your're in the area, looking for a mid-10 and haven't done it, but I wouldn't do it again. |
By Mic Fairchild
From: Boulder
Nov 3, 2003
rating: 5.10a
| A little different from the usual Shelf lines in that it moves around a corner (!), so you need a long sling. For the gear challenged, try two quicks clipped together. Another nice warm up or challenge at its level. Rating (typically) soft. |
By Not So Famous Old Dude
From: Denver, CO
Apr 28, 2008
| If you go straight up the face on crimps, it will feel like 10c. |
By Dpurf
From: Superior
Dec 13, 2008
| Did not like this one. Not sure why I had to climb the fin or the face when I could just go up the easy stuff in the corner. |
By Lauren D. Hollingsworth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 27, 2009
| Contrived at .10c. You'd have to climb with blinders on. |
By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 26, 2010
rating: 5.10c PG13
| Beware,
at the ledge, for an easier and safer clip, climb the easier corner to prevent decking on the ledge while clipping the next bolt.
October 2009 or January 2010, a climber sprained an ankle when going straight up to clip that bolt.
Just sayin'. |
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