Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Willow River State Park
Select Route:
Able 
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck 
Brass Monkey 
Business Time 
Cain 
Couch Time 
Cypher 2 
Daily Grind 
Doppler Effect 
Double Trouble 
Dry Lightning 
Fox Confessor 
Genesis Effect 
Guess and Check 
High Road to China 
Hurtful Pleasures 
Jar of Flies 
Leftovers 
Living Slightly Larger 
Middle Cyclone 
Midsummer Daydreams 
Midsummer Selection 
Mono Mercy 
Mono Route 
Natural Daydreams 
Natural Selection 
New Beginnings 
No Crack for Old Men 
Play Time Is Over 
Pride and Prejudice 
Radioactive Man 
Rejection and Mercy 
Requiem 
Speedy Delivery 
Sudden Daydreams 
Sudden Shock 
Sunday Sermon 
Surf Selection 
Tsunami 
Water Music 
White Noise 

Rejection and Mercy 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Paul Bjork - 1998
Page Views: 991
Submitted By: Colin Erskine on Feb 8, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: topo.
Open with restrictions: MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Find a corner with two large blocks at the base. Climb the crack through a 12-foot horizontal roof. At the lip follow bolts up and right to the top.


Protection 

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.



Comments on Rejection and Mercy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 19, 2007
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

This route surprised me, I at first thought it was going to be filthy dirty and not fun to climb. But once cleaned it became amazingly fun to climb and one of the most aesthetic lines on the wall, especially since it's right in the middle of the amphitheatre and the steepest climb here.

Be sure to bring a lot of long draws, because rope drag over two LARGE roofs is a bitch. And the anchors are quite offset making them unequalized, which also twists up your rope pretty bad. Just a heads up.

And props to Paul for doing this route back in '98!

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 23, 2008

finally got on this rig. big moves at the crux (15' below final roof), preceded and followed by shorter moves between good, albeit dirty incuts. a long-ish climb, hop on this if your looking for something that uses the roof crack and packs more climbing than shorter climbs like hurtful but not as much climbing as, say, business time or no crack for old men.

take long draws for sure. at least three are needed. definitely place one right after the roof crack, then another one two bolts later. save one more for the bolt below the last roof. clip the lower set up anchors, those right over the roof.

lastly, i've heard linking the mono route into rejection and mercy is a fun link. i haven't tried it yet, but it would give the mono route more bang for its buck, as it's one of the (if not the) shortest routes in the steep part of the crag.

By Paul Bjork
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

Thanks, Chris, for cleaning it again. As I recall, a good part of the pump on the climb was finishing out the last 15 feet with totally blown arms. This climb was a a great challenge and catharsis for me at this point in my life. I hope that you enjoy it as I did.